Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [409]
Malinbeg Hostel ( 074-973 0006; www.malinbeghostel.com; Malinbeg, Glencolumbcille; dm/s/d €15/25/40; closed Dec–mid-Jan; ) Flung out on a remote stretch of coast, the contemporary Malinbeg hostel sports spotless rooms (some with private bathroom) and scores big for its proximity to the beach and to the grocery store handily situated across the road.
Glencolumbcille Walking Centre (opposite; s/d €35/50; ) Overlooking sheep-filled paddocks, this smart new place has 11 immaculate rooms with private bath. Breakfast isn’t included but there’s an enormous self-catering kitchen. The owners live off site, so call ahead.
An Cistin (Kitchen; 074-973 0213; Glencolumbcille; mains €10-22; 9am-9pm Easter-Oct) Attached to Oideas Gael, this cafe/restaurant serves up surprisingly gourmet fare to a soundtrack of mellow jazz.
Shopping
Glencolumbcille Woollen Mill ( 074-973 0070; www.rossanknitwear-glenwoolmill.com; Malinmore; 10am-8pm Mar-Oct, to 5.50pm Nov-Feb) A great place to stock up on Donegal tweed jackets, caps and ties and lambswool scarves and shawls. You can sometimes see weavers in action. It’s about 5km southwest of Glencolumbcille, in Malinmore.
John Molloy’s ( 074-973 0282; www.johnmolloy.com; Glencolumbcille) This Ardara manufacturer’s Glencolumbcille factory outlet sells a wide range of woollies made from natural yarns.
Getting There & Away
Bus Éireann ( 074-912 1309) service 490 leaves for Killybegs daily (€7.60, 45 minutes) with an extra service on Saturday and in July and August.
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MAGHERY & THE GLEN GESH PASS
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On the northern edge of the peninsula, tiny Maghery has a picturesque waterfront. If you follow the strand westward, you’ll get to a rocky promontory full of caves. During Cromwell’s 17th-century destruction, 100 villagers sought refuge here but all except one were discovered and massacred.
About 1.5km east of Maghery is the enchanting Assarancagh Waterfall, beyond which is the beginning of a 10km marked trail to the Glen Gesh Pass (Glean Géis, meaning ‘Glen of the Swans’). It’s almost alpine in appearance; cascading mountains and lush valleys are dotted with isolated farmhouses and small lakes. If you’re driving or cycling, you can get to the pass directly from Glencolumbcille by following the road signs for Ardara.
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ARDARA
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The heart of Donegal’s traditional knitwear and hand-woven tweed, Ardara (Árd an Rátha) is a pretty gateway to the switchbacks of Glen Gesh Pass just southwest of the town. Tourist information is available from the Triona Design visitor centre ( 074-914 1422; www.trionadesign.com; Main St; 9am-7pm). On the Diamond the Ulster Bank has an ATM; the post office is nearby on Main St.
Festivals & Events
Dancing, storytelling and a school of music are part of the trad-music Cup of Tae Festival (www.cupoftaefestival.com), held at the end of April or early May.
Sleeping & Eating
Drumbarron Hostel ( 074-954 1200; jfeeneyardara@eircom.net; The Diamond; dm/d €18/38) In an elevated spot in the town centre, this Georgian-style two-storey house has clean, airy dorms and a large stone-floored kitchen. Knock at the B&B opposite if there’s nobody in the hostel. No credit cards.
Drumbarron House ( 074-954 1200; jfeeneyardara@eircom.net; The Diamond; s/d €40/70; ) The artist-owner of the Drumbarron Hostel across the road is the third generation to operate this cosy B&B. All five rooms are spacious and have bright bathrooms. No credit cards.
Green Gate ( 074-954 1546; www.thegreengate.eu; Ardvally, Ardara; s/d €70/90; ) Finding this idyllic hilltop B&B is something of a treasure hunt (and, at