Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [411]
Return to beginning of chapter
GLENTIES
pop 811
At the foot of two valleys with a southern backdrop laid on by the Blue Stack Mountains, the proud ‘Tidy Town’ of Glenties (Na Gleannta) is a good spot for fishing and has some cracking walks in the surrounding countryside.
A summer school (www.patrickmacgill.com) is held in August in honour of plucky Patrick MacGill (1891–1963), the ‘navvy poet’ who was sold by his parents at a hiring fair, later escaped and eventually ended up writing for the English Daily Express. Glenties is also linked with playwright Brian Friel, whose play (and subsequent film), Dancing at Lughnasa, is set in the town.
On the main street there’s a Bank of Ireland, with an ATM and bureau de change, and a post office.
St Connell’s Museum & Heritage Centre ( 074-955 1227; Main St; adult/child €2.50/free; 10am-1pm & 2-4.30pm May-Sep), beside the old courthouse at the western end of town, has a ragbag of local artefacts. Call for (very limited) opening hours during the rest of the year.
Sleeping & Eating
Campbell’s Holiday Hostel ( 074-955 1491; www.campbellireland.com; dm/d €15/40; Easter-Oct; ) Colour-coding keeps you from getting lost in this mazelike 56-bed hostel. Modern facilities include two kitchens and common areas with open fires, as well as a handy laundry. Look for the signs behind the museum.
Brennan’s B&B ( 074-955 1235; Main St; s/d/apt €45/70/100; ) The welcome is genuinely warm at this family-run B&B. Its three comfy guestrooms are lovingly tended to, and it’s handily situated at the southern end of the main drag among a crop of inviting pubs and shops.
Highlands Hotel ( 074-955 1111; www.highlandshotel.com; Main St; mains €13-25) This country hotel at the western end of town is OK for pub grub, but the staff’s dismissive attitude is unlikely to inspire you to stay upstairs in its 20 rooms (single/double €60/110).
Entertainment
The thatched Paddy’s Bar ( 074-955 1158; Main St) has been completely remodelled without detracting from its character, and attracts all ages, particularly for its regular traditional music sessions.
Getting There & Away
Bus Éireann ( 074-912 1309) service 492 from Donegal stops off in Glenties on the way to Dungloe (€8.20, 45 minutes) one to two times daily Monday to Friday.
Return to beginning of chapter
FINN VALLEY & AROUND
Off the beaten track, even by Donegal standards, though an easy day trip from Letterkenny, the Finn Valley makes a serene escape for salmon fishing and hill walking or cycling, but you need to be equipped with maps and provisions.
The main town is Ballybofey (Bealach Féich), linked to adjoining Stranorlar by an arched bridge over the Finn. In its Protestant church is the grave of Isaac Butt (1813–79), founder of the Irish Home Rule movement. There’s a locally run tourist office ( 074-913 2377; Main St; 9am-5pm Mon-Fri) in the state-of-the-art Ballybofey Balor Theatre, which can help with accommodation if you want to stay in the area.
The county’s only operational railway, the Fintown Railway ( 074-954 6280; www.antraen.com; Fintown; adult/child €8/5), is a charming little tourist train that runs over Easter and during the summer months, plus special trips for Halloween and Christmas. Lovingly restored to its original condition, the red-and-white 1940s diesel railcar runs along a rebuilt 5km section of the former County Donegal Railway track alongside Lough Finn. The return trip, which includes commentary, takes around 40 minutes. Hours of departure vary annually.
Getting There & Away
Bus Éireann ( 074-912 1309) express service 64 between Galway (€18.90, 4¾ hours) and Derry (€10, 35 minutes) via Sligo (€13.10, two hours), Donegal (€6.90, 30 minutes) and Letterkenny (€5.40, 25 minutes) stops up to six times daily in Ballybofey. Buses also connect Ballybofey with Killybegs (€10, one hour).
McGeehan Coaches ( 074-954 6150; www.mgbus.com) runs services between Glencolumbcille (€9.50, 1¾ hours) and Letterkenny (