Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [423]
STABLES DUNLEWEY
A range of pony and trap rides, treks, trail rides and lessons are available at Dunlewey’s stables ( 087 320 8998; thestablesdunlewey@hotmail.com), situated across the car park from the Dunlewey Lakeside Centre.
MT ERRIGAL
The looming presence of Mt Errigal (752m) seemingly dares walkers to attempt the tough but beautiful climb to its pyramid-shaped peak. If you’re keen to take on the challenge, pay close attention to the weather. It’s a dangerous climb on misty or wet days, when the mountain is shrouded in cloud and visibility is minimal.
There are two paths to the summit: the easier route, which covers 5km and takes around two hours; and the more difficult 3.3km walk along the northwestern ridge, which involves scrambling over scree for about 2½ hours. Details of both routes are available at the Dunlewey Lakeside Centre.
POISONED GLEN
Legend has it that the stunning ice-carved rock face of the Poisoned Glen got its sinister name when the ancient one-eyed giant king of Tory, Balor, was killed here by his exiled grandson, Lughaidh, whereupon the poison from his eye split the rock and poisoned the glen. The less interesting truth, however, lies in a cartographic gaffe. Locals were inspired to name it An Gleann Neamhe (the Heavenly Glen), but when an English cartographer mapped the area, he carelessly marked it An Gleann Neimhe – the Poisoned Glen.
The R251 has several viewpoints overlooking the glen. It’s possible to walk through it, although the ground is rough and boggy. From the lakeside centre a return walk along the glen is 12km and takes two to three hours. Watch out for the green lady – the resident ghost!
Sleeping
Errigal Hostel ( 074-953 1180; www.errigalhostel.com; Dunlewey; dm €20-21, d €52; ) At the base of Mt Errigal, this gleaming new 60-bed An Óige hostel has state-of-the-art facilities including a stainless steel self-catering kitchen, a large laundry room for your muddy climbing gear, light-filled common areas, and pristine dorms and private rooms. Green initiatives include wood-pellet heating. There’s a petrol station that also sells groceries next door.
Radharc an Ghleanna ( 074-953 1835; http://radharcanghleanna.littleireland.ie; Moneymore, Dunlewey; s/d with bathroom €50/70, without €45/66; Easter-Oct; ) This county bungalow is aptly named: Radharc an Ghleanna translates as ‘View of the Glen’, and the views of the glen and lough are eye-popping. The four rooms are as clean as laboratories (but infinitely cosier). It’s run by a friendly couple whose extended family enjoy staying here too, so be sure to book ahead. Follow the sign to Poisoned Glen down a small lane; it’s a few metres ahead on your right.
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GLENVEAGH NATIONAL PARK
Lakes shimmer like dew in the mountainous valley of Glenveagh National Park (Páirc Náisiúnta Ghleann Bheatha; www.glenveaghnationalpark.ie; admission free; 10am-6pm mid-Mar–Oct, 9am-5pm Nov–mid-Mar). Alternating between great knuckles of rock, green-gold swaths of bog and scatterings of oak and birch forest, the 16,500 sq km protected area is magnificent walking country. Its wealth of wildlife includes the golden eagle, which was hunted to extinction here in the 19th century but was reintroduced in 2000.
Such serenity came at a heavy price. The land was once farmed by 244 tenants, who were forcibly evicted by landowner John George Adair in the winter of 1861 following what he called a ‘conspiracy’, but really because their presence obstructed his vision for the valley. Adair put the final touches on his paradise (1870–73) by building the spectacular lakeside Glenveagh Castle, while his wife, Adelia, introduced the park’s definitive red deer and rhododendrons.
If anything, things got even more surreal after the Adairs’ deaths. The castle was briefly occupied by the IRA in 1922. Then in 1929 the property was acquired by Kingsley Porter, professor of art at Harvard University,