Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [429]
Local semiprecious stones (see the boxed text, opposite) are transformed into jewellery and unusual gifts at Malin Pebbles ( 074-938 1432; www.malinpebbles.com; Church Brae), 100m uphill from the ferry.
Lough Swilly ( 074-912 2863) has two buses Monday to Friday (one on Saturday) from Derry, passing through Greencastle (€7.90, one hour).
Lough Foyle Ferry ( 074-938 1901; www.loughfoyleferry.com) has a car-ferry service to Magilligan from outside the museum, saving you a 78km drive. Single fares per car/motorcycle/adult/child for the 15-minute crossing cost €12/7.50/2.20/1. It runs every hour on the hour from Greencastle, and at quarter past the hour from Magilligan. The first ferry is at 8am Monday to Friday, 9am Saturday and Sunday from Greencastle; the last ferry departs Greencastle at 6pm in winter, later during the rest of the year. Timetables are posted on the website.
Inishowen Head
A right turn outside Greencastle leads to Shrove; a sign indicating Inishowen Head is 1km along this road. It’s possible to drive or cycle part of the way, but it’s also an easy walk to the headland, from where you can see (on a clear day) the Antrim coast as far as the Giant’s Causeway. A more demanding walk continues on to the sandy beach of Kinnagoe Bay.
Culdaff & Around
pop 155
Sheep vastly outnumber people around the secluded, resort village of Culdaff (Cúil Dabhcha) on the main Moville–Carndonagh road (R238).
Sheep now also wander the remains of the Clonca church & cross. Inside, an intricately carved tombstone sporting a sword and hurling-stick motif was erected by one Magnus MacOrristin. The carved lintel over the door is thought to come from an earlier church. Outside, the remains of the cross show the miracle of the loaves and fishes on the eastern face and geometric designs on the sides. Look for the turn-off to Culdaff, on the right if coming from Moville, on the left after about 6km if coming from Carndonagh. The Clonca church and cross are 1.5km on the right behind some farm buildings.
A necklace of around 30 prehistoric stones, called the Bocan Stone Circle, embroiders a farmer’s field east of Clonca church. From Clonca, continue along the road until you reach a T-junction with a modern church facing you. Turn right here and after about 500m turn left (no sign). The Bocan Stone Circle is inside the first heather-covered field on the left.
The plain stumpy-armed Carrowmore High Crosses are all that remain of an ancient monastic site straddling a small lane. One is basically a decorated slab showing Christ and an angel, while the other is a taller, unadorned cross.
From Bocan Stone Circle and Clonca church, retrace the route back to the main Carndonagh–Moville road and turn left, then almost immediately right.
Culdaff has a Blue Flag beach that’s great for swimming and windsurfing. From Bunagee Pier, sea angling and diving are popular – contact Geoff at Dive North ( 086 336 5699).
McGrory’s of Culdaff ( 074-937 9104; www.mcgrorys.ie; Culdaff; bar food €10.50-21, restaurant mains €15.50-22; bar food 12.30-8pm, restaurant 6.30-9pm Tue-Sat, 1-3pm & 6-8.30pm Sun; ) is a raspberry-red village landmark. It’s a good place to count sheep, with 17 spiffy rooms (single/double from €59/89) decorated with a contemporary eye. Before sleeping, however, head downstairs to catch live music in Mac’s Backroom, which books international singer-songwriters and traditional music. McGrory’s classic Irish cuisine is the best for miles around.
Malin Head
If you’ve already seen Ireland’s southernmost point and its westernmost point, you’ll still be impressed when you clap your eyes on Malin Head (Cionn Mhálanna), the island’s northern extent. The head’s rocky, weather-battered slopes feel like they’re being dragged unwillingly into the sea. It’s great for wandering