Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [437]
* * *
* * *
GETTING AROUND LAOIS
Although the county town of Portlaoise does not merit a visit in itself, it’s a useful transport hub. Direct trains run from Portlaoise to Dublin (€21.50, one hour, 12 daily); Cork (€20 to €44, two hours, three daily); and Limerick (€28.50, 1½ hours, five daily).
Bus Éireann runs frequent buses on three main routes from Portlaoise: to Cork (€11.70, three hours, six daily) via Abbeyleix, Cashel and Cahir; to Dublin (€11, 1½ hours, 12 daily) via Kildare city; and along the N7 to Limerick (€9.90, 2¼ hours, 12 daily) via Mountrath, Borris-in-Ossory and Roscrea.
JJ Kavanagh & Sons ( 081-833 3222; www.jjkavanagh.ie) runs two buses per day Monday to Saturday from Portlaoise to Carlow (€7.50, 70 minutes) and three to Limerick (€9, two hours).
* * *
For accommodation, Mountrath, to the south, and Kinnitty, to the northwest, are good bases. For something a little more regal, you could try Ballaghmore Castle ( 0505-21453; www.castleballaghmore.com; Ballaghmore; adult/child €5/3; 10am-5pm), a 15th-century tower house with heavy, creaking wooden doors, cold stone walls and a mysterious sheila-na-gig. You can just take a look around, rent the whole place for a weekend (€2000), or stay in the grounds at Manor Guest House (per person from €60) or the self-catering Rose Cottage (per week €500). The castle is 3km west of Borris-in-Ossory.
Although there is no public transport across the Slieve Blooms, buses do stop in the nearby towns of Mountrath and Rosenallis.
Return to beginning of chapter
MOUNTRATH & AROUND
pop 1435
A once-prosperous 18th-century linen centre, Mountrath is a low-key village, where the week’s highlight is the cattle market. Both St Patrick and St Brigid are supposed to have established religious houses here, although no trace of either remains.
Today, the local place of pilgrimage is the 6th-century monastery of St Fintan at Clonenagh, 3km east of Mountrath on the Portlaoise road. Its claim to fame is St Fintan’s Tree, a large sycamore; the water that collects in the groove in one of its lower branches is said to have healing properties.
Ballyfin House (8km north of Mountrath) is an architectural treasure, designed by Richard Morrison in 1850. Used for years as a college, work began (and was then suspended due to the credit crunch) on a painstaking restoration in order to transform the mansion into a luxury hotel. The original target date for completion was 2010 but it’s likely it’ll be at least a year behind schedule.
Instead, head for Roundwood House ( 057-873 2120; www.roundwoodhouse.com; Slieve Blooms Rd; s/d from €110/170; Feb-Dec; ), a lush country estate, family home and hotel, where you’ll feel like you’re a family friend rather than a paying guest. Set in secluded woods, the rooms in this beautiful 17th-century Palladian villa are all elegantly decorated, but have a definite lived-in feel. Children will love all the outdoor space and the friendly dogs, and the communal dinner (€50 per person) is a chance to meet the amiable owners and enjoy a country treat of local foods. Try to get a room in the main house for the best atmosphere and value.
Mountrath is on the main Bus Éireann Dublin–Limerick route, with up to 14 buses daily in each direction.
Return to beginning of chapter
MOUNTMELLICK
pop 2872
A quiet Georgian town on the River Owenass, Mountmellick was renowned for its linen production in the 19th century and owes much of its history to its Quaker settlers.
A 4km looped and signed heritage trail, beginning in the square, leads you on a walking tour of the most important landmarks. For an insight into the town’s Quaker and industrial heritage, visit Mountmellick Museum ( 057-862 4525;