Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [45]
‘Supper’ is increasingly becoming the main meal for urbanites, and it takes place as soon as the last working parent gets home.
Etiquette
Conviviality is the most important condiment at the Irish table. Meal times are about taking the load off your feet, relaxing and enjoying the company of your fellow diners. There is very little prescribed or restrictive etiquette. In fact, the only behaviour likely to cause offence could be your own haughtiness. The Irish will happily dismiss any faux pas, but if they think you have ideas above your station, they’re quick to bring you back down to earth.
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The Ballymaloe series of cookbooks by various members of Ireland’s first family of cooking, the Allens, have an extraordinary reputation in Ireland and abroad. The emphasis is on using top-quality ingredients simply and with love.
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COOKING COURSES
Cooking has regained its sex appeal in Ireland and plenty of schools are finding their classes increasingly popular. The teaching is usually relaxed and sociable, and takes place in beautiful settings. A stint at one of these cookery schools could quite easily be the highlight of your trip:
Ballymaloe ( 021-464 6785; www.cookingisfun.ie; Ballycotton, Co Cork) From half-day sessions to 12-week certificate courses. Classes are held in an old apple-storage house, and there are cottages in the grounds for overnight students.
Ballyknocken ( 0404-69274; www.ballyknocken.com; Glenealy, Ashford) Full-day cooking classes by Ballymaloe graduate Catherine Fulvio that run throughout the year. Classes are held in a converted milking parlour.
Belle Isle School of Cookery ( 028-6638 7231; www.irish-cookery-school.com; Enniskillen, Co Fermanagh) A range of cookery and wine courses lasting from one day to four weeks. Luxurious accommodation in Belle Isle Castle and its estate cottages.
Berry Lodge ( 065-708 7022; www.berrylodge.com; Annagh, Co Clare) Offering in-depth instruction, often over more than one day. Packages including classes, accommodation and meals are available.
Castle Leslie ( 047-88109; www.castleleslie.com; Glaslough, Co Monaghan) Offering a program of year-round courses with master chef Noel McMeel. Themed courses cover everything from ‘Irish cooking by seasons’ to ‘death by chocolate’ and ‘food and erotica’.
Fiacri Country House Restaurant ( 0505-43017; www.fiacrihouse.com; Roscrea, Co Tipperary) Course are run year-round, and range from one day to five weeks in length.
Ghan House ( 042-937 3682; www.ghanhouse.com; Carlingford, Co Louth) Offers hands-on cooking classes and cooking demonstrations. Accommodation is also available.
Good Things Café ( 027-61426; www.thegoodthingscafe.com; Durrus, Co Cork) Runs cookery courses year-round, including a two-day ‘miracle’ program for beginners.
Pangur Ban ( 095-41243; www.pangurban.com; Connemara, Co Galway) Two-day weekend courses, covering specific themes such as ‘bread and cakes’.
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The Avoca Café Cookbooks, by Hugo Arnold, contain hearty, wholesome recipes from the family-run Avoca Handweaver restaurants, originally based in Wicklow (Click here) and now with 10 establishments across the Republic.
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MARKETS
There are few better ways to eat well in Ireland than to fill your shopping basket with local, seasonal produce at a farmers market. The markets have seen a real resurgence in recent years and most Irish towns now host one at least once a week. Check out www.irelandmarkets.com or www.bordbia.ie/markets for a definitive list.
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Slowfood Ireland (www.slowfoodireland.com) is an organisation committed to local and artisan food production. It runs various sociable events throughout the country, from bangers ’n mash parties to cheese-and-wine evenings.
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EAT YOUR WORDS
Food Glossary
bacon and cabbage – slices of boiled bacon