Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [451]
The 350-hectare park was once part of the Rockingham estate, owned by the King family from the 17th century until 1957. Rockingham House, designed by John Nash, was destroyed by a fire in the same year; all that remains are some stables, outbuildings and eerie tunnels leading to the lake – built to hide the servants from view.
The park recently received a boost with the addition of a visitor centre, and the Lough Key Experience (adult/child €7.50/5), incorporating a panoramic, 250m-long treetop canopy walk, which rises 7m above the woodland floor and offers superb lake views. Other attractions include the Boda Borg Challenge (adult/child €16/12, min 3 people) – a series of rooms filled with activities and puzzles (great for sudden bursts of rain); and an outdoor adventure playground (adult/child free/€5).
In July and August, Lough Key Boats ( 071-966 7037; www.loughkeyboats.com) provides waterskiing lessons, hourly commentated boat trips, rowing-boat hire and fishing advice (record-breaking pike have been caught here).
Lough Key is 4km east of Boyle on the N4. The Bus Éireann Sligo to Dublin route has frequent services from Boyle to Lough Key.
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CLOSE ENCOUNTERS
Maybe it’s the wide open skies or the lack of evening entertainment, but Boyle and its surrounds have seen a rash of reported UFO sightings in recent years, particularly along the quiet little back road north to Ballinafad. The UFO Society of Ireland ( 071-966 2844; www.ufosocietyireland.com) was launched in Boyle in 1997 following a particularly mysterious crash in the nearby mountains. A few kilometres away, the Roscommon side of Carrick-on-Shannon is home to Golden UFO Investigations ( 086 684 7866). Of course, there are plenty of sceptics, but you might want to keep your eyes peeled – just in case.
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DRUMANONE DOLMEN
This astonishing portal dolmen, one of the largest in Ireland, measures 4.5m by 3.3m and was constructed before 2000 BC. It can be tricky to find: follow Patrick St and then the R294 out of town for 5km, until you pass under a railway arch. A sign indicates the path across the railway line. Take care crossing as trains are frequent.
DOUGLAS HYDE INTERPRETIVE CENTRE
The life of Roscommon native Dr Douglas Hyde (1860–1949), poet, writer and first president of Ireland, is celebrated at the Douglas Hyde Interpretive Centre (Gairdín an Craoibhín; 094-987 0016; Frenchpark; admission free; 2-5pm Tue-Fri, 2-6pm Sat & Sun May-Sep). Outside the political arena, Hyde cofounded the Gaelic League in 1893 and spent a lifetime gathering Gaelic poems and folklore that might otherwise have been lost forever.
The centre is housed in the former Protestant church at Frenchpark, 12km southwest of Boyle on the R361. Call ahead to make sure it’s open.
ARIGNA MINING EXPERIENCE
Ireland’s first and last coal mine (1600s to 1990) is remembered at the Arigna Mining Experience ( 071-964 6466; www.arignaminingexperience.ie; adult/child €10/6; 10am-5pm), set in the hills above Lough Allen. The highlight is the 40-minute underground tour, which takes you 400m down to the coal face. Tours are led by ex-miners who really bring home the gruelling working conditions and dangers of their job. Wear sturdy shoes as it can be wet and muddy underfoot.
ARIGNA MINERS WAY & HISTORICAL TRAIL
Covering 118km of north Roscommon, east Sligo and mid-Leitrim, these well-signposted tracks and hill passes cover the routes taken by miners on their way to work. A guidebook with detailed maps is available from local tourist offices.
Sleeping
Boyle is blessed with a clutch of great B&Bs to choose from.
Lough Key Caravan & Camping Park ( 071-966 2212; campsites from €10; Apr–mid-Sep) Right inside the picturesque