Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [453]
Sights & Activities
In the former Presbyterian church, Roscommon County Museum ( 090-662 5613; The Square; adult/child €2/1; 10am-3pm Mon-Fri Jun–mid-Sep) contains some interesting pieces, including an inscribed 9th-century slab from St Coman’s monastery and a superb medieval sheila-na-gig. The unusual Star of David window supposedly represents the Trinity.
The impressive ruins of Norman Roscommon Castle stand alone in a field to the north of town, beautifully framed by the landscaped lawns and small lake of the new town park. Built in 1269, the castle was almost immediately destroyed by Irish forces, and its turbulent history continued until the final surrender to Cromwell in 1652. The massive walls and round bastions are a reminder of how significant this fortress once was.
At the southern end of town, the 13th-century Dominican priory, off Circular Rd, merits a quick visit for its unusual 15th-century carving of eight gallóglí (‘gallowglasses’, who were mercenary soldiers). Wielding seven swords and an axe, they protect an earlier effigy of the priory’s founder, Felim O’Conor, set in the north wall.
Roscommon’s central square is dominated by its former courthouse (now the Bank of Ireland). Opposite, the facade of the old jail survives. Ask any local about the grim tale of Lady Betty, its infamous hang woman.
You can pick up a brochure and map of the Suck Valley Way, a 75km walking trail along the River Suck, at the tourist office. The river has an abundance of rudd, tench, pike and perch. En route you pass the rare La Tène Stone, an Iron Age spiral-inscribed stone in Castlestrange, 7km southwest of town on the R366.
Sleeping & Eating
Jacksons ( 090-663 4140; www.jacksons.ie; The Square; s/d €50/95, lunch mains €5-12, dinner mains €14-24; 12.30-4.30pm daily & 5-9pm Wed-Sun) The top spot to eat in town, this modern restaurant is run by an award-winning chef keen to make the most of seasonal local produce. The menu features local meat, fish and game in interesting combinations. Upstairs there are 10 big, modern rooms with warm wood furniture and plenty of light.
Gleeson’s ( 090-662 6954; www.gleesonstownhouse.com; The Square; s/d from €75/125, cafe mains €8-14, restaurant mains €11-20; cafe 8am-6pm, restaurant noon-3pm & 6.30-9.15pm; ) There’s a wonderfully warm welcome at this listed 19th-century town house, set back from the square in its own courtyard, full of fairy lights. Rooms are decorated in bright Mediterranean colours and exude a cosy, country-house feel. There’s a bustling cafe downstairs, as well as the popular Manse restaurant which serves solid but rather staid fare.
Castlecoote House ( 090-666 3794; www.castlecootehouse.com; Castlecoote; s/d €119/178; ) About 8km southwest of Roscommon, this Georgian mansion has five impossibly romantic rooms with antique furnishings and views over the orchard, croquet lawn, ruined castle or river. A couple also come with four-poster beds and chandeliers. You can play tennis on two courts on the grounds. From Roscommon town, take the R366 signposted to Fuerty and follow it to Castlecoote. As you go over the bridge into the village, the double gates of Castlecoote House are on your right.
Drinking & Entertainment
JJ Harlow’s ( 090-663 0869; The Square) Untouched until recently, the front bar at this old-world pub still has shelves full of provisions and hardware items, though it has lost much of its original character. The modern back bar hosts regular live music including bluegrass and jazz.
Roscommon Arts Centre ( 090-662 5824; www.roscommonartscentre.ie; Circular Rd) There’s an impressive range of independent cinema and touring comedy, theatre and music at this auditorium. Check the website for listings.
Getting There & Away
Bus Éireann ( 090-648 4406) express services between Westport (€16, 2¼ hours) and Dublin (€19, three hours) via Athlone stop in Roscommon three times daily (once on Sunday). Buses stop outside Regan’s Bar on the square.
Roscommon train station