Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [463]
Trout fishing is popular in the lakes around Mullingar. The fishing season runs from 1 March or 1 May (depending on the lake) to 12 October. Contact the tourist office or the Shannon Regional Fisheries Board ( 044-934 8769; www.shannon-fishery-board.ie) for further information.
If you fancy some horse riding, try the Mullingar Equestrian Centre ( 044-934 8331; www.mullingarequestrian.com; Athlone Rd; ).
You can kayak on Lough Ennell from the Lilliput Adventure Centre ( 044-26789; www.lilliputadventure.com; Jonathan Swift Park). The centre also organises land-based activities such as gorge walking and abseiling courses.
Sleeping & Eating
There are few B&Bs in the centre, but you’ll find plenty on the approach roads from Dublin and Sligo.
Lakeshore ( 044-934 0618; www.lakeshorebnb.com; s/d from €45/70; ) This lovely B&B is on an organic farm just south of town. The four rooms have pine furniture and patchwork quilts as well as lovely views. You can sample the farm’s own milk, yogurt and cheese at breakfast and there is a kitchenette for guest use. Lakeshore is 7km south of Mullingar. Head out along the N52, turning right onto the R390 just after the ring road.
Annebrook House Hotel ( 044-935 3300; www.annebrook.ie; Pearse St; s/d from €99/150; ) Right in the town centre, the hub of this modern hotel is a lovely 19th-century house with strong connections to local author Maria Edgworth. Accommodation is in a new annexe, where modern rooms in neutral colours are extremely comfortable but lack soul.
Ilia Tapas ( 044-934 5947; 37 Dominick St; tapas €3.95-12.95; 6-10pm Tue-Sat, 5-9pm Sun) Book in advance for one of Mullingar’s most popular haunts. This modern restaurant serves generous portions of international-style tapas that are great for sharing. Go for beetroot and whipped goat’s cheese with roast pine nuts or chickpea and baby spinach bacon salad with black pudding boudin. You’ll be back for more.
Oscar’s ( 044-934 4909; 21 Oliver Plunkett St; mains €15-22; 6-9.30pm Mon-Thu, 6-10pm Fri & Sat, 12.30-2.15pm & 6-8.15pm Sun) This perennially popular spot is the place to go for wholesome comfort food in a lively atmosphere. Bright colours, a menu that skirts the Mediterranean (think pastas, pizzas and French-inspired meat and poultry) and a decent wine list make it a good evening option.
Drinking & Entertainment
Con’s ( 044-934 0925; 22 Dominick St; mains €8-14; carvery noon-3pm Mon-Fri) Con’s is a traditional Irish pub that serves a good pint and decent, hearty grub, such as carvery lunches and doorstop sandwiches. It’s a local favourite, so it can get busy.
Yukon Bar ( 044-934 0251; 11 Dominick St) A good live-music venue famous for its resident fortune teller, this bar has a great atmosphere and a range of soul, blues and rock music on offer.
Mullingar Arts Centre ( 044-934 7777; www.mullingarartscentre.ie; County Hall, Lower Mount St) The centre runs a regular program of music, comedy, drama and art exhibitions.
Getting There & Away
Bus Éireann ( 01-836 6111) runs services to Dublin (€14.30, 1½ hours, six Monday to Saturday, five Sunday) and Athlone (€10.30, one hour, three Monday to Saturday, one Sunday).
The train station ( 044-934 8274) has direct services to Dublin (€21.50, one hour, up to 10 Monday to Friday, seven Saturday, five Sunday) and Sligo (€34, two hours, eight Monday to Saturday, six Sunday).
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NORTH OF MULLINGAR
Crookedwood & Around
The small village of Crookedwood hugs the shore of Lough Derravaragh. The 8km-long lake is associated with the legend of the children of Lír, who were turned into swans here by their jealous stepmother. Each winter the legend is recalled by thousands of snow-white migratory swans who flock here from as far away as Russia and Siberia.
About 3km west of Crookedwood is the Multyfarnham Franciscan friary. In the present church, the remains of a 15th-century church still stand, and there are outdoor Stations of the Cross set beside a stream.
East of Crookedwood, a small road leads 2km to the ruins of the fortified 15th-century St Munna