Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [465]
CARRICKMACROSS & AROUND
INNISKEEN
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Stretching north and west of Dublin, the counties of Meath and Louth are now firmly on the capital’s commuter belt, but it was their lush, fertile fields that attracted the very first of Ireland’s settlers to the region, sealing its fate as the birthplace of Irish civilisation. Their legacy remains in the magnificent tombs at world-famous Brú na Bóinne and mysterious Loughcrew, both of which predate the Egyptian pyramids.
At Tara, gateway to the otherworld and seat of the high kings of Ireland, massive earthworks, passage graves and a ‘stone of destiny’ hint at the importance of the site for the early Celts. St Patrick put an end to all that with the introduction of Christianity, and the faithful built abbeys, high crosses and round towers to educate the worthy and protect their treasured manuscripts. Magnificent ruins at Monasterboice, Mellifont and Kells still whisper tales of a time when Ireland was known as the Land of Saints and Scholars.
Further north and west, the two counties of Monaghan and Cavan, bordering Northern Ireland, have a very different flavour, their rolling hills and copious lakes offering a far quieter pace of life. There’s a refreshing lack of tourists in this area save for fishing enthusiasts flocking to Cavan’s trout-filled lakes, boaters enjoying the lush scenery along the Erne Waterway and walkers savouring the wild scenery and expansive views of the Cuilcagh Mountains. Much of the attraction here is the outdoors, making it a perfect place for visitors seeking an unspoilt corner of Ireland.
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HIGHLIGHTS
Prehistoric Wonders Explore the extraordinary prehistoric remains at the ancient burial sites of Brú na Bóinne Click here
Happy Days Soak up the views, enjoy the oysters and kick back in the charming village of Carlingford
Ancient Ireland Ramble around the evocative ruins and mighty castle of the unassuming town of Trim
Stony Grey Soil Follow in the footsteps of poet and author Patrick Kavanagh on the quiet roads around Inniskeen
Mystical Past Shun the crowds and make your way to the hilltop tombs of the Loughcrew Cairns
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POPULATION: 394,000
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AREA: 6387 SQ KM
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COUNTY MEATH
One of the five provinces of ancient Ireland, Meath, ‘the Middle Kingdom’, attracted Ireland’s first settlers and was at the centre of Irish politics for centuries. Although their purpose is not quite understood, the magnificent Neolithic monuments in the Boyne Valley were of enormous significance to the people of the time. Meath was home to Ireland’s high kings, and the massive castle in Trim is a testimony to the power and the wealth of the area up until Norman times.
Today, Meath’s fertile land and plentiful water supply make it an important centre of agriculture, while its proximity to Dublin has meant unchecked growth for the county’s towns in the last decade: Navan, Slane and Kells are blighted with soulless housing estates and the resulting traffic can be hellish.
For visitors though, the attractions are plentiful and Meath’s tourism authority is one of the best in Ireland. Its publications are of a high standard, and you’ll find loads of info at www.meathtourism.ie.
History
Meath’s rich soil, laid down during the last Ice Age, attracted settlers as early as 8000 BC. They worked their way up the banks of the River Boyne, transforming the landscape from forest to farmland. The extensive necropolis at Brú na Bóinne lies on a meandering section of the Boyne between Drogheda and Slane. West of here there’s a group of smaller passage graves in the Loughcrew Hills near Oldcastle.
For a thousand years the Hill of Tara was the seat of power for Irish high kings, until the arrival of St Patrick in the 5th century. Later, Kells, to the northwest, became one of the most important and creative monastic settlements in Ireland, and lent its name to the famed Book of Kells, a 9th-century illuminated manuscript now displayed at Trinity College, Dublin (see the boxed text, Click