Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [476]
In 1649, Cromwell’s soldiers invaded Trim and set fire to the abbey’s revered statue, a rather poignant slap in the face of Catholic belief. Just in case the locals didn’t get the symbolism of the gesture, the soldiers destroyed the remaining parts of the abbey as well.
In the early 18th century, Talbot Castle was owned by Esther ‘Stella’ Johnson, the mistress of Jonathan Swift. He later bought the property from her and lived there for a year. Swift was rector of Laracor, 3km southeast of Trim, from around 1700 until 1745, when he died. From 1713 he was also – and more significantly – dean of St Patrick’s Cathedral in Dublin.
Just northwest of the abbey building is the 40m Yellow Steeple, once the bell tower of the abbey, dating from 1368 but damaged by Cromwell’s soldiers. It takes its name from the colour of the stonework at dusk.
East of the abbey ruins is part of the 14th-century town wall, including the Sheep Gate, the lone survivor of the town’s original five gates. It used to be closed daily between 9pm and 4am, and a toll was charged for sheep entering to be sold at market.
NEWTOWN
About 1.5km east of town on Lackanash Rd, Newtown Cemetery contains an interesting group of ruins. The former Parish Church of Newtown Clonbun contains the late-16th-century tomb of Sir Luke Dillon, Chief Baron of the Exchequer during the reign of Elizabeth I, and his wife Lady Jane Bathe. The effigies are known locally as the Jealous Man and Woman, perhaps because of the sword lying between them.
Rainwater that collects between the two figures is claimed to cure warts. Apparently you place a pin in the puddle and then jab your wart; when the pin becomes covered in rust your warts will vanish. Some say you should leave a pin on the statue as payment for the cure.
The other ruins here are the Cathedral of Sts Peter and Paul and the 18th-century Newtown Abbey. The cathedral was founded in 1206 and burned down two centuries later. Although parts of the cathedral wall were flattened by a storm in 1839, it throws a superb echo back to Echo Gate across the river.
Southeast of these ruins, and just over the river, is the Crutched Friary. There are ruins of a keep, and traces of a watchtower and other buildings from a hospital set up after the Crusades by the Knights of St John of Jerusalem, who wore a red crutch (cross) on their cassocks. St Peter’s Bridge, beside the friary, is said to be the second-oldest bridge in Ireland.
Sleeping
Bridge House Tourist Hostel ( 046-943 1848; silvertrans@eircom.net; Bridge St; dm/d from €20/50; ) Well-loved and well-worn, this quirky old house right on the river has basic four-bed dorm rooms and a couple of doubles. It’s a great place to meet other travellers and has a very atmospheric location.
Crannmór House ( 046-943 1635; www.crannmor.com; Dunderry Rd; s/d from €50/80; ) Five acres of rolling farmland and paddocks surround this vine-covered old house about 2km along the road to Dunderry. Bright rooms and traditional hospitality are on offer, and if you’re interested in fishing locally, the owner is an experienced ghillie (fishing guide).
Tigh Cathain ( 046-943 1996; www.tighcathaintrim.com; Longwood Rd; s/d €55/80; ) A mock–Tudor style country house about 1km southwest of the town centre, Tigh Cathain has three pretty, uncluttered pastel bedrooms. The house is surrounded by a handsome garden.
Highfield House ( 046-943 6386; www.highfieldguesthouse.com; Maudlins Rd; s/d from €55/80; ) Set high on a hill, this 18th-century country house has been restored with an eclectic mixture of styles. You’ll find pine furniture and period replicas side by side in the bedrooms, some swirly carpets and deep coloured walls. It’s all a bit overwhelming but the rooms are comfortable enough.
Castle Arch Hotel