Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [478]
On older maps you may see Kells labelled as Ceanannus Mór or just Ceanannus, once its official name; locally it is always known as Kells.
Information
The tourist office ( 046-924 7840; Kells Heritage Centre, Headfort Pl; 10am-6pm Mon-Sat, 1.30-6pm Sun May-Sep, 10am-5pm Mon-Fri Oct-Apr) is in the heritage centre, located behind the town hall. It’s a useful place for information on some of Meath’s remote sights, such as Loughcrew Cairns.
Sights
KELLS HERITAGE CENTRE
Spread across two detail-packed floors, the town’s heritage centre ( 046-924 7840; Headfort Pl; admission free; 10am-6pm Mon-Sat, 1.30-6pm Sun May-Sep, 10am-5pm Mon-Fri Oct-Apr, last admission one hr before closing) has a rather beautiful copy of the area’s most famous object, the Book of Kells, which was brought here from the monastery on Iona in Scotland in 807 after a Viking raid. Surrounding the book are various 6th- to 12th-century relics and artefacts, as well as a highly detailed scale model of the town in the 6th century. There’s also a small cafe.
MARKET CROSS
Until 1996, the Market Cross had stood for centuries in Cross St, at the heart of the town centre. Besides inviting the pious admiration of the faithful, the cross was used as a gallows in the aftermath of the 1798 revolt; the British garrison hanged rebels from the crosspiece, one on each arm so the cross wouldn’t fall over. But what 1000 years of foul weather and the sacrilegious British couldn’t do, a careless bus driver did in 1996 and with one bad turn the cross was toppled. It was eventually repaired and re-erected outside the Kells Heritage Centre.
On the eastern face of the Market Cross are depictions of Abraham’s sacrifice of Isaac, the brothers Cain and Abel, the Fall of Adam and Eve, guards at the tomb of Jesus, and a wonderfully executed procession of horsemen. On the western face, the Crucifixion is the only discernible image. On the northern side is a panel of Jacob wrestling with the angel.
ROUND TOWER & HIGH CROSSES
The Protestant church of St Columba (admission free; 10am-1pm & 2-5pm Mon-Sat, services only Sun), west of the town centre, has a 30m-high 10th-century round tower on the southern side. It’s without its conical roof, but it’s known to date back at least as far as 1076, when the high king of Tara was murdered in its confined apartments.
Inside the churchyard are four 9th-century high crosses in various states of repair. The West Cross, at the far end of the compound from the entrance, is the stump of a decorated shaft, which has scenes of the baptism of Jesus, the Fall of Adam and Eve, and the Judgement of Solomon on the eastern face, and Noah’s ark on the western face. All that is left of the North Cross is the bowl-shaped base stone.
Near the tower is the best preserved of the crosses, the Cross of Patrick and Columba, with its semi-legible inscription, Patrici et Columbae Crux, on the eastern face of the base. Above it are scenes of Daniel in the lion’s den, the fiery furnace, the Fall of Adam and Eve, and a hunting scene. On the opposite side of the cross are depictions of the Last Judgement, the Crucifixion, and riders with a chariot, as well as a dog on the base.
The other surviving cross is the unfinished East Cross, with a carving of the Crucifixion and a group of four figures on the right arm.
ST COLMCILLE’S HOUSE
From the churchyard exit on Church St, St Colmcille’s House (admission free; 10am-5pm Sat & Sun Jun-Sep) is left up the hill, among the row of houses on the right side of Church Lane. This squat, solid structure is a survivor from the old monastic settlement. Its name is a misnomer, as it was built in the 10th century and St Colmcille was alive in the 6th century. Experts have suggested that it was used as a scriptorium, a place where monks illuminated books.
The site is usually locked except during the summer months, but ask at the tourist office about the keys or phone