Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [483]
Head up Magdalene St from the church to see the 14th-century Magdalene Tower, the bell tower of a Dominican friary founded in 1224. It was here that England’s King Richard II, accompanied by a great army, accepted the submission of the Gaelic chiefs with suitable ceremony in 1395. Peace lasted only a few months however, and Richard’s return to Ireland led to his overthrow in 1399. Treasonous connections with the Gaelic Irish also lead to the Earl of Desmond’s demise; he was beheaded here in 1468.
Keep making your way uphill from here to see the rather charming and more recent Church of Our Lady of Lourdes off Hardmans Gardens.
Finally, you can’t help but admire the 1855 Boyne Viaduct carrying trains over the river east of the centre. Each of the 18 beautiful stone arches has a 20m span; erecting the piers bankrupted one company.
Sleeping
Green Door Hostel ( 041-983 4422; www.greendoorireland.com; 13 Dublin Rd; dm/d from €17/64) Set in a grand Georgian house near the train station, this hostel has five- to 12-bed dorm rooms as well as some private rooms, the best of which have their own TVs and bathrooms.
Salthouse ( 041-983 4426; 46 John St; s/d €35/70) This basic guesthouse makes a good option if you’re looking for something slightly more cosy than the hostel. It has simple but clean rooms with pine furniture and white linens, and a bar with lively music sessions. Breakfasts go on almost all day so you can enjoy a sleep in without missing the fry up.
Windsor Lodge ( 041-984 1966; www.barwindsorlodge.com; The Court, North Rd; s/d €50/70; ) This large purpose-built guesthouse has a good choice of modern, spacious rooms with country-style decor and new bathrooms. There’s a lovely conservatory, a large lounge and an outdoor seating area to relax in at the end of your day.
D Hotel ( 041-987 7700; www.thed.ie; Scotch Hall, Marsh Rd; s/d from €70/130; ) Slick, hip and unexpected, this is Drogheda’s top dog when it comes to accommodation. The luxurious but minimalist rooms are bathed in light and decked out with designer furniture and cool gadgets. There’s a stylish bar and restaurant, and great views of the city. Book in advance online and you could nab a fantastic deal.
Orley House ( 041-983 6019; www.orleyhouse.com; Bryanstown, Dublin Rd; r from €80; ) This spick-and-span B&B has large comfortable rooms and a warm welcome for families. It’s a well-run place with excellent service and hearty breakfast served in a sun-filled conservatory. Orley House is about 2km out of town on the Dublin road.
Eating
Jaffas ( 041-980 2804; Fitzwilliam Court, Dyer St; meals €4.50-9; 8.30am-6pm Mon-Sat, to 7pm Thu & Fri, 11am-6pm Sun) Big, bright and modern with giant windows overlooking the river, this popular place serves a bumper range of soups, sandwiches, panini, bagels, crepes, and baked potatoes with a choice of interesting fillings. Service is swift and there are tables outside for alfresco dining on fine days.
Andersons ( 041-980 3295; Highlanes Gallery, Laurence St; meals €5-10; 10am-6pm Mon-Sat, noon-5pm Sun; ) Located in the impressive new Highlanes Gallery, this modern cafe serves a tempting range of soups, salads, sandwiches and wraps, as well as continental-style platters of luscious cheeses and cured meats. There’s free wi-fi.
Eastern Seaboard Bar & Grill ( 041-980 2570; 1 Bryanstown Centre, Dublin Rd; mains €9-16; noon-10pm Mon-Sat, to 8pm Sun; ) Despite the swish, contemporary design, this popular new eatery manages to exude a warm, relaxed atmosphere with plenty of quirky details adding to its allure. The menu features all-American classics from sweet potato fries to burgers and New England clam chowder. Book ahead – it’s been packed since opening.
Bella Atina ( 041-984 4878; The Mall; mains €10-15; 6-10.30pm Mon-Sat) Old-school country charm combines with new ideas at this excellent Italian place down by the river. It’s all exposed brick arches and red walls inside, and the menu features classic Italian pastas as well as deftly prepared