Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [487]
A third, simpler cross in the northeastern corner of the compound is believed to have been smashed by Cromwell’s forces and has only a few straightforward carvings. Photographers should note that this cross makes a great evening silhouette picture, with the round tower in the background.
The round tower, minus its cap, is over 30m tall, and stands in a corner of the complex. Records suggest the tower interior went up in flames in 1097, destroying many valuable manuscripts and other treasures. It’s closed to the public.
The church ruins are from a later era and are of less interest, although the modern gravestones are often quite sad.
There’s a small gift shop outside the compound in summer. There are no set hours but come early or late in the day to avoid the crowds. It’s just off the M1 motorway, about 8km north of Drogheda.
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DUNDALK
pop 29,037
An industrial hub, Dundalk is all business and always has been. Although there’s not a lot for the visitor here, it’s a pleasant enough place with a couple of interesting sites.
In the Middle Ages, Dundalk was at the northern limits of the English-controlled Pale, and with partition in 1921 it once again became a border town, this time providing a quick escape from the ‘bandit country’ of South Armagh.
The tourist office ( 042-933 5484; dundalk@failteireland.ie; Jocelyn St; 9am-6pm Mon-Sat Jun–mid-Sep, 9.30am-5.15pm Mon-Fri mid-Sep–May) is next to the County Museum.
Right in the centre, the richly decorated 19th-century St Patrick’s Cathedral was modelled on King’s College Chapel in Cambridge, England. Also here is the interesting County Museum Dundalk ( 042-932 7056; Jocelyn St; adult/concession €4/2.50; 10.30am-5.30pm Mon-Sat, 2-6pm Sun, closed Mon Oct-Apr). Different floors in the museum are dedicated to the town’s early history and archaeology, and to the Norman period. One floor deals with the growth of industry in the area, from the 1750s up to the 1960s – including the cult classic Heinkel Bubble Car, which was manufactured in the area.
The courthouse (cnr Crowe & Clanbrassil Sts) is a fine neo-Gothic building with large Doric pillars designed by Richard Morrison. In the front square is the stone Maid of Éireann, commemorating the 1798 Rising.
Should you need sustenance, Rosso ( 042-935 6502; 5 Roden Pl; cafe mains €6-9, restaurant lunch €9-15, dinner mains €17.50-24.50; cafe 10am-5pm, restaurant noon-2.30, 5.30-9.30pm Sun-Fri) is a trendy modern place opposite St Patrick’s Cathedral. The slick downstairs restaurant features an ambitious international menu while the more informal cafe upstairs has cosy sofas and serves a tempting selection of salads, wraps and baguettes.
Bus Éireann ( 042-933 4075; Long Walk) runs an almost hourly service to Dublin (€8, 1½ hours) and a less frequent one to Belfast (€13, 80 minutes). The bus station is near the courthouse.
Clarke Train Station ( 042-933 5521; Carrickmacross Rd) is 900m west of the bus station. It has express trains to Dublin (€18 to €21.50, one hour, seven Monday to Saturday, five Sunday) and Belfast (€19, one hour, eight Monday to Saturday, five Sunday), as well as many slower services.
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COOLEY PENINSULA
Unsettling, isolated and remote, the Cooley Peninsula has an arresting beauty with forested slopes and sun-dappled, multihued hills rising out of the dark waters of Carlingford Lough. Sweeping views lead the eyes across the water to Northern Ireland’s Mourne Mountains, while tiny country lanes wind their way down to deserted stony beaches.
Carlingford
pop 623
Nestled dramatically between the hills and the water, Carlingford is a pretty three-street village littered with evocative ruins and whitewashed houses. It’s a really lovely place overlooking Carlingford Lough, but little of this was appreciated until the late 1980s, when the villagers got together to show what can be done to revive a dying community. The story of their efforts is vividly told in the heritage centre.