Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [498]
There’s no tourist office, but the tourism section of the town’s website, www.carrickmacross.ie, has visitor information.
Sights & Activities
In the town’s former cattle yards, a local cooperative runs the Carrickmacross Lace Gallery ( 042-966 2506; www.carrickmacrosslace.ie; Market Sq; 9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Thu, 9.30am-4.30pm Fri), which sells the distinctive gossamerlike designs. Unlike Clones’ crocheted lace, designs here are appliquéd on organza using thick thread and close stitches. Excess organza is cut away and the work is embellished with a variety of point stitches, guipure, pops and the lace’s distinctive loop edge. Most famously, Carrickmacross lace graced the sleeves of Princess Diana’s wedding dress.
Craftsmanship also shines at St Joseph’s Catholic Church (O’Neill St), with 10 windows designed by Harry Clarke, Ireland’s most renowned stained-glass artist.
There’s fantastic fishing in many of the lakes around Carrickmacross, including Loughs Capragh, Spring, Monalty and Fea. For more information and contact details for guides, boat hire and tackle see the angling section on www.monaghantourism.com.
Sleeping & Eating
Lakewood ( 042-966 3207; www.irelandfishing.net; Kingscourt Rd; s/d €40/70; ) This modern B&B has lovely, bright rooms with a simple contemporary style and a warm welcome. Although it caters mainly for anglers – boat hire, guides, bait fridge and tackle shop are available on site – this shouldn’t put non-fishers off as it’s one of the best deals in the area.
Shirley Arms ( 042-967 3100; www.shirleyarmshotel.ie; Main St; s/d from €85/120; ) Recently refurbished and slap bang in the centre of town, the Shirley Arms is a sleek modern hotel with spacious rooms and decent food. White linens, walnut floors and modern bathrooms make the rooms contemporary but rather corporate in style, while the open-plan bar and lounge make an informal setting for some excellent bar food (€8 to €16). The more formal restaurant is pricey (mains €21 to €29).
Getting There & Away
Bus Éireann ( 01-836 6111) services connect with Dublin (€13.50, 1¾ hours, five daily). There are also several private operators on the route. The bus stop is outside O’Hanlon’s shop on Main St.
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INNISKEEN
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Acclaimed poet Patrick Kavanagh (1904–67) was born in the village of Inniskeen, 10km northeast of Carrickmacross. The Patrick Kavanagh Rural and Literary Resource Centre ( 042-937 8560; www.patrickkavanaghcountry.com; adult/child under 12 €5/free; 11am-4.30pm Tue-Fri year-round & 3-5pm Sun Jun-Sep) is housed in the old parish church where he was baptised; the staff have a passion for his life and work that is contagious.
Kavanagh’s long work, The Great Hunger (1942), blasted away the earlier clichés of Anglo-Irish verse and revealed Ireland’s poor farming communities as half-starved, ‘broken-backed’ and sexually repressed. His best-known poem, On Raglan Road (1946), was an ode to his unrequited love. It doubled as the lyrics for the traditional Irish air ‘The Dawning of the Day’, which has been performed by Van Morrison, Mark Knopfler, Billy Bragg, Sinéad O’Connor and countless others.
Actor Russell Crowe is a passionate fan of Kavanagh’s work, and has recited the four-line ‘Sanctity’ (1937) as part of his acceptance speech at award ceremonies on several occasions. In 2002 he was so irate that his recital was cut from the telecast of the BAFTA awards that he later threatened the show’s director, vowing that the man would never work in Hollywood again.
Information on guided literary tours around town is posted on the resource centre’s website. Otherwise you can buy a copy of the Patrick Kavanagh Trail Guide (€0.70) and walk or drive around the sites in and around the village and the picturesque surrounding countryside (5.6km in all).
The centre hosts an annual Patrick Kavanagh Weekend