Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [500]
The partition of Ireland in 1920 gave Belfast a new role as the capital of Northern Ireland. It also marked the end of the city’s industrial growth, although decline didn’t really set in until after WWII. With the outbreak of the Troubles in 1969, the city saw more than its fair share of violence and bloodshed, and shocking news images of terrorist bombings, sectarian murders and security forces’ brutality made Belfast a household name around the world.
The 1998 Good Friday Agreement, which laid the groundwork for power-sharing among the various political factions in a devolved Northern Ireland Assembly, raised hopes for the future, and since then Belfast has seen a huge influx of investment, especially from the EU. Massive swathes of the city centre have been (or are being) redeveloped, and tourism has taken off. Until recently, unemployment was low and property prices were rising faster than in any other UK city, but Belfast was hit hard by the economic downturn – that meteoric rise was followed by a devastating tumble as house prices fell by 33% in 2008.
A historic milestone was passed on 8 May 2007 when the Reverend Ian Paisley (firebrand Protestant preacher and leader of the Democratic Unionist Party) and Martin McGuinness (Sinn Féin MP and former IRA commander) were sworn in at Stormont as first minister and deputy first minister of a new power-sharing government.
There are still plenty of reminders of the Troubles – notably the ‘peace lines’ that still divide Protestant and Catholic communities – and the passions that have torn Northern Ireland apart over the decades still run deep. But despite occasional setbacks, there is an atmosphere of determined optimism that will hopefully propel Belfast towards a peaceful future.
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ORIENTATION
Belfast sits at the head of Belfast Lough, straddling the lower reaches of the River Lagan and hemmed in to the west by the steep slopes of Black Mountain and Cave Hill. The city centre lies on the west bank of the Lagan, with the imposing City Hall in Donegall Sq as a convenient central landmark. The principal shopping district is north of the square along Donegall Pl and Royal Ave. North again, the once run-down area around Donegall St and St Anne’s Cathedral forms the bohemian Cathedral Quarter.
South of Donegall Sq, the so-called Golden Mile stretches for 1.5km along Great Victoria St, Shaftesbury Sq and Botanic Ave to Queen’s University and the leafy suburbs of South Belfast. This area (now dubbed Queens Quarter) has dozens of restaurants and bars and most of the city’s budget and midrange accommodation. Northwest of Donegall Sq, Divis St leads across the Westlink Motorway to Falls Rd and West Belfast (Gaeltacht Quarter). East of the river rise the massive cranes of the Harland and Wolff shipyards in East Belfast, an area undergoing major redevelopment (now known as the Titanic Quarter).
The Europa BusCentre and Great Victoria St train station are behind the Europa Hotel on Great Victoria St, 300m southwest of City Hall (access through Great Northern Mall); the Laganside BusCentre is near the Albert Memorial Clock Tower, 600m northeast of City Hall. Belfast Central train station (which isn’t very central!) is 800m east of City Hall on East Bridge St.
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BELFAST IN…
One Day
Start your day with breakfast in one of the many cafes on Botanic Ave – Maggie May’s Click here will do nicely – then stroll north into the city centre and take a free guided tour of City Hall Click here. Take a black taxi tour of the West Belfast murals Click here, then ask the taxi driver to drop you off at the John Hewitt Bar & Restaurant Click here for lunch. Catch a 2pm Titanic Tour Click here boat trip around the harbour, then walk across the Lagan Weir Click here to visit the Titanic Quarter Click here. Round off the day with dinner at Deane