Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [510]
The main attractions are the powerful murals that chart the history of the conflict as well as the political passions of the moment and, for visitors from mainland Britain, there is a grim fascination to be found in wandering through the former ‘war zone’ in their own backyard.
West Belfast grew up around the linen mills that propelled the city into late-19th-century prosperity. It was an area of low-cost, working-class housing, and even in the Victorian era was divided along religious lines. The advent of the Troubles in 1968 solidified the sectarian divide, and since 1970 the ironically named ‘Peace Line’ has separated the Loyalist and Protestant Shankill district from the Republican and Catholic Falls district.
Despite its past reputation, the area is safe to visit. The best way to see West Belfast is on a black taxi tour (Click here). The cabs visit the more spectacular murals as well as the Peace Line (where you can write a message on the wall) and other significant sites, while the drivers provide a colourful commentary on the history of the area.
There’s nothing to stop you visiting under your own steam, either walking or using the shared black taxis along the Falls or Shankill Rds (see the boxed text, Click here). Alternatively, buses 10A to 10F from Queen St will take you along the Falls Rd; buses 11A to 11D from Wellington Pl go along Shankill Rd.
You can also pick up a range of free leaflets at the Belfast Welcome Centre that describe walking tours around the Falls and Shankill districts.
FALLS ROAD
Although the signs of past conflict are inescapable, the Falls today is an unexpectedly lively, colourful and optimistic place. Local people are friendly and welcoming, and community ventures such as Conway Mill, the Cultúrlann centre and black taxi tours have seen tourist numbers increase dramatically.
The focus for community activity is the Irish language and cultural centre Cultúrlann McAdam Ó Fiaich (Map; 9096 4180; www.culturlann.ie; 216 Falls Rd; 9am-9pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat). Housed in a red-brick, former Presbyterian church, it’s a cosy and welcoming place with a tourist information desk, a shop selling a wide selection of books on Ireland, Irish-language material, crafts, and Irish music CDs, and an excellent cafe-restaurant Click here. The centre also has an art gallery and a theatre that stages music, drama and poetry events.
A few blocks away is Conway Mill (Map; 9024 7276; www.conwaymill.org; 5-7 Conway St; admission free; 10am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 3pm Sat), a 19th-century flax mill that now houses an art gallery, an exhibition on the mill’s history and more than 20 small shops and studios making and selling arts, crafts and furniture. (Redevelopment works mean that parts of the mill complex will be closed until completion in June 2010.) The mill also houses the Irish Republican History Museum ( 10am-2pm Tue-Sat), a collection of artefacts, newspaper articles, photos and archives relating to the Republican struggle from 1798 to the Troubles.
Also see the Belfast Walking Tour, Click here.
SHANKILL ROAD
Although the Protestant Shankill district (from the Irish sean chill, meaning ‘old church’) has received less media and tourist attention than the Falls, it also contains many interesting murals. The people here are just as friendly, but the Shankill has far fewer tourists than the Falls. Loyalist communities seem to have more difficulty in presenting their side of the story than the Republicans, who have a far more polished approach to public relations.
To reach Shankill Rd on foot, set off north from City Hall along Donegall Pl and Royal Ave, then turn left on North St and continue straight on across the Westlink dual carriageway.
Beyond Shankill Rd, about 500m up Glencairn Rd, is Fernhill House: The People’s Museum (Map; 9071 5599; www.fernhillhouse.co.uk; Glencairn Rd; adult/child £2/1; 10am-4pm Mon-Sat, 1-4pm Sun). Set in a wealthy Victorian merchant’s villa, the museum contains a recreation