Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [516]
Taxi Tours
Black taxi tours of West Belfast’s murals – known locally as the ‘bombs and bullets’ or ‘doom and gloom’ tours – are offered by a large number of taxi companies and local cabbies. These can vary in quality and content, but in general they’re an intimate and entertaining way to see the sights and can be customised to suit your own interests. There are also historical taxi tours of the city centre. For a one-hour tour expect to pay from £25 total for one or two people, and £10 per person for three to six. Call and they will pick you up from anywhere in the city centre.
The following are recommended:
Harpers Taxi Tours ( 07711 757178; www.harperstaxitours.co.nr)
Official Black Taxi Tours ( 9064 2264, toll-free 0800 052 3914; www.belfasttours.com)
Original Belfast Black Taxi Tours ( 07751 565359)
Walking Tours
Belfast Pub Tours ( 9268 3665; www.belfastpubtours.com; per person £6; 7pm Thu & 4pm Sat May-Oct) A two-hour tour (not including drinks) taking in six of the city’s historic pubs, departing from the Crown Dining Rooms, above the Crown Liquor Saloon on Great Victoria St.
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KEN HARPER, BLACK TAXI DRIVER
What do you do for a living? I do black taxi tours. I started work in Belfast in 1968 – that was just the start of the so-called Troubles – and qualified as a taxi driver in 1979. I remember, just before the ceasefires of 1994, the odd tourist coming through Belfast and asking me for a tour. Now it’s a major industry.
What do people want to see? The most popular sights, without doubt, are the Shankill Rd and Falls Rd areas. For example, the murals, the so-called ‘Peace Line’ and the general area around those roads which the Troubles affected greatly.
Do visitors understand the situation here? Some tourists do and some don’t understand the conflict and divisions in Northern Ireland, but I can explain to the majority of my tourists the background to the problem. The daftest question I have been asked was, ‘Who is Sinn Féin?’, thinking it was a person. Another tourist asked, on seeing a statue of Queen Victoria, ‘Is that the bad Queen?’
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Blackstaff Way ( 9029 2631; billy.dickson@ntlworld.com; per person £6; 11am Sat) A fascinating 1½-hour historical tour through the city along the route of the Blackstaff River, which was channelled underground in 1881. Departs from the Belfast Welcome Centre.
Historic Belfast Walk ( 9024 6609; per person £6; 2pm Wed & Fri-Sun) A 1½-hour tour that explores the architecture and history of the Victorian city centre and Laganside. Departs from the Belfast Welcome Centre.
Titanic Tours ( 9065 9971; 07852 716655; www.titanictours-belfast.co.uk; per person £25) A two-hour tour led by the great-granddaughter of one of Titanic’s crew, visiting various Titanic-related sites, for groups of two to five people; includes pick-up and drop-off at your accommodation.
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FESTIVALS & EVENTS
The Belfast City Council ( 9024 6609; www.belfastcity.gov.uk/events) organises a wide range of events throughout the year, covering everything from the St Patrick’s Day parade to the Lord Mayor’s Show, and has a very useful online events calendar.
March
Between the Lines (Crescent Arts Centre; 9024 2338; www.crescentarts.org) Ten-day literary festival.
St Patrick’s Carnival ( 9043 4767; www.belfastcarnival.com) A celebration of Ireland’s patron saint marked by various community festivals and culminating in a grand city-centre parade on 17 March.
Belfast Film Festival ( 9032 5913; www.belfastfilmfestival.org) A weeklong celebration of Irish and international film making held in late March.
April
Titanic Made In Belfast Festival ( 9024 6609; www.belfastcity.gov.uk/titanic) A weeklong celebration held in early/mid April of the world’s most famous ship, and the city that built her, with special exhibitions, tours, lectures and film screenings.
May
Belfast Marathon ( 9060 5922; www.belfastcitymarathon.com)