Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [534]
On the opposite side of the river stands the Crozier Monument, which is adorned with four idiosyncratically sculpted polar bears. Captain Francis Crozier (1796–1848), a native of Banbridge, was commander of HMS Terror and froze to death in the Arctic during Sir John Franklin’s ill-fated expedition in search of the Northwest Passage. Crozier lived in the fine blue and grey Georgian house across the road from the statue.
Banbridge is the starting point for the Brontë Homeland Drive, a signposted route along the Bann valley to Rathfriland, 16km to the southeast. Patrick Brontë, father of the famous literary sisters, was born and brought up here, and the locals like to think that her father’s tales of the Mourne Mountains inspired the bleak setting for Emily’s classic Wuthering Heights.
Milking this tenuous connection for all it’s worth is the Brontë Homeland Interpretive Centre ( 4062 3322; Drumballyroney; adult/child £3/2; noon-4.30pm Fri-Sun Apr-Sep) in the former Drumballyroney School and Church, off the B10 road 13km southeast of Banbridge, where Patrick taught and preached. His birthplace is at Emdale, 6km west of here, near the B3 road between Rathfriland and Loughbrickland.
Goldline Express bus 238 from Belfast’s Europa BusCentre to Newry stops at Banbridge (£6, 45 minutes, at least hourly Monday to Saturday, eight Sunday).
Saintfield & Around
pop 3000
Saintfield is a pretty and prosperous little town, a popular weekend destination for visitors from Belfast who come to browse its dozen or so antique shops and tearooms.
Rowallane Garden ( 9751 0131; Crossgar Rd, Saintfield; adult/child £5/2.50; 10am-8pm May-Aug, to 6pm Mar & Apr, Sep & Oct, to 4pm Nov-Feb), 2km south of Saintfield, is renowned for its spectacular spring displays of rhododendrons and azaleas, which thrive behind a windbreak of Australian laurels, hollies, pines and beech trees. The walled gardens feature rare primulas, blue Himalayan poppies, plantain lilies, roses, magnolias and delicate autumn crocuses.
For lunch, try the March Hare ( 9751 9248; 2 Fairview; mains £3-6; 9am-5.30pm Mon-Sat) at the west end of the main street, a cosy little tearoom serving hearty, homemade soups, sandwiches and cakes.
Saintfield is 16km south of Belfast, and is a stop on the Goldline Express bus 215 service from Belfast to Downpatrick.
Legananny Dolmen
Ulster’s most famous Stone Age monument is a strangely elegant tripod dolmen, looking as if a giant’s hand has placed the capstone delicately atop the three slim uprights. Its elevated position on the western slopes of Slieve Croob (532m) gives it an impressive view to the Mourne Mountains.
Legananny is a challenge to find without the aid of a 1:50,000 scale map. Heading south from Ballynahinch along the B7 to Rathfriland, go through the hamlets of Dromara and Finnis, then look out for a minor road on the left (signposted Legananny Dolmen). Continue for a further 3km, through a crossroads, and look for another road on the left (a signpost is there, but it’s difficult to spot). Continue over the hill for 2km, then turn left again at a farm. There’s a parking place 50m along, and the dolmen is 50m uphill on the adjacent farm track.
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BELFAST TO BANGOR
The coastal region stretching east from Belfast to Bangor and beyond is commuter territory for the capital, and home to many of the North’s wealthiest citizens – it’s known locally as the ‘Gold Coast’. The attractive North Down Coastal Path follows the shore from Holywood train station to Bangor Marina (15km), and continues east to Orlock Point.
For the Ulster Folk and Transport Museums, Click here.
Crawfordsburn
pop 500
The pretty little conservation village of Crawfordsburn lies just over 3km west of Bangor on the B20. The picturesque Old Inn ( 9185 3255; www.theoldinn.com; 15 Main St, Crawfordsburn; r £115-160; ) here was once a resting place on the coach route between Belfast