Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [536]
Housed in the converted laundry, stables and stores of Bangor Castle, the North Down Heritage Centre ( 9127 1200; Castle Park Ave; admission free; 10am-4.30pm Tue-Sat, 2-4.30pm Sun year-round, plus 10am-4.30pm Mon Jul & Aug) displays, among other historical curiosities, a facsimile of The Antiphonary of Bangor, a small 7th-century prayer book and the oldest surviving Irish manuscript (the original is housed in Milan’s Ambrosian Library). There’s also an interesting section on the life of William Percy French (1854–1920), the famous entertainer and songwriter (Bangor is also home to the Percy French Society; www.percyfrench.org). The centre is in Castle Park, west of the train and bus stations.
The fishing village of Groomsport on the eastern edge of town has a picturesque harbour, overlooked by Cockle Row Cottages ( 9145 8882; admission free; 11.30am-5.30pm Jun-Aug), one of which has been restored as a typical fisherman’s home of 1910.
Sleeping
Ennislare House ( 9127 0858; www.ennislarehouse.com; 7-9 Princetown Rd; s/d £35/60; ) Set in a lovely Victorian town house just 300m north of the train station, the Ennislare has big, bright rooms, stylish decor, and a friendly owner, who can’t do enough to make you feel welcome.
Cairn Bay Lodge ( 9146 7636; www.cairnbaylodge.com; 278 Seacliff Rd; s/d from £45/80; ) This lovely seaside villa overlooking Ballyholme Bay, 1km east of the town centre, oozes Edwardian elegance with its oak-panelled lounge and dining room. There are three bedrooms with private bathrooms that blend antique charm with contemporary style, beautiful gardens, gourmet breakfasts and sea views.
Hebron House ( 9146 3126; www.hebron-house.com; 68 Princetown Rd; s/d £55/80; ) Breakfast around the communal dining table is a highlight at the Hebron, where landlady Ilona gets inventive with organic produce, dishing up oat-crusted potato cakes with your bacon and eggs, or adding Bushmills whiskey and clotted cream to your porridge. The three bedrooms combine traditional Victorian fittings with elegant modern decor, and there are plush towels, bathrobes and Molton Brown toiletries in the stylish bathrooms.
Clandeboye Lodge Hotel ( 9185 2500; www.clandeboyelodge.com; 10 Estate Rd, Clandeboye; s/d from £85/100; ) Looking a little like a modern, red-brick church set amid landscaped gardens on the southwest edge of town, the Clandeboye offers informal luxury – big bedrooms, polished granite bathrooms, fluffy bathrobes, Champagne and chocolates – plus a log fire in winter and a drinks terrace in summer.
Eating
Red Berry Coffee House ( 9147 3373; 2-4 Main St; mains £3-5; 9am-10pm Mon-Sat, 1-9pm Sun) A chilled-out fairtrade coffee shop that serves big breakfasts (including a stack of pancakes with bacon and maple syrup) till 11.30am, and deli sandwiches and salads thereafter.
Phezulu (mains £9-15; 5-8.45pm Thu-Sat, noon-3pm Sat, 1-5pm Sun) The upstairs bistro of the Red Berry, Phezulu boasts a South African– inspired menu with dishes such as Cape Malay Curry and boerewors (pork and coriander sausages) with mash and gravy.
Jeffers by the Marina ( 9185 9555; 7 Gray’s Hill; mains £13-17; 10am-10pm Tue-Sat, 11am-8pm Sun) This chic little cafe-restaurant is immediately likeable, with its laid-back jazzy tunes, cool art, granite table tops and view of the marina. It serves coffee, cakes and snacks all day and also has a fresh and interesting dinner menu that features local organic produce – from Strangford Lough oysters to their signature Irish beef, slow cooked for five hours, with roast beetroot and horseradish mash.
Coyle’s Bistro ( 9127 0362; 44 High St; mains £13-18; 5-9pm Tue-Sat, to 8pm Sun) Despite being upstairs from a busy bar, this place is surprisingly intimate and inviting, with wood panelling, mirrored walls and subdued lighting. The menu won a mention in