Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [540]
The abbey church, which remained in use as late as the 18th century, was the first in Ireland to be built in the Gothic style. At the east end is a carved tomb, possibly depicting Affreca; the effigy in the north transept may be her husband. The grounds, overlooked by 18th-century Rosemount House, are awash with trees and flowers on spreading lawns, making this an ideal picnic spot.
Hoops Courtyard, off Main St in the village centre, has a cluster of 18 little shops selling antiques and collectables; opening times vary, but all are open on Wednesday, Friday and Saturday afternoons. Hoops Coffee Shop ( 4278 8541; Hoops Courtyard, Main St; mains £4-6; 10am-5pm Tue-Sat Sep-Jun, daily Jul & Aug) is a traditional tearoom with outdoor tables in the courtyard in fine weather, serving good lunches and wicked cream teas.
Mount Stewart House & Gardens
The magnificent 18th-century Mount Stewart ( 4278 8387; house tour & gardens adult/child £7.40/3.70, gardens only £5.60/2.80; house noon-6pm daily Jul & Aug, Wed-Mon Sep, Thu-Sun Apr & Oct, Sat & Sun Mar, 1-6pm daily Jun, Wed-Mon May) is one of Northern Ireland’s grandest stately homes. It was built for the Marquess of Londonderry and is decorated with lavish plasterwork, marble nudes and priceless artworks.
Lady Mairi (born 1920) – daughter of the seventh marquess – still lives and entertains guests in part of the house; the family is related by marriage to the Goldsmiths via Annabel (born 1934), daughter of the eighth marquess, after whom the famous London nightclub was named. The house’s treasures include the chairs used at the Congress of Vienna in 1815 (embroidery added in 1918–22), and a painting of the racehorse Hambletonian by George Stubbs, one of the most important paintings in Ireland.
Much of the landscaping of the beautiful gardens ( 10am-8pm May-Sep, to 6pm Apr & Oct, to 4pm Mar) was supervised in the early 20th century by Lady Edith, wife of the seventh marquess, for the benefit of her children – the Dodo Terrace at the front of the house is populated with unusual creatures from history (dinosaurs and dodos) and myth (griffins and mermaids), accompanied by giant frogs and duck-billed platypuses. The 18th-century Temple of the Winds ( 2-5pm Sun Apr-Oct) is a folly in the classical Greek style built on a high point above the lough.
Mount Stewart is on the A20, 3km northwest of Greyabbey and 8km southeast of Newtownards. Buses from Belfast and Newtownards to Portaferry stop at the gate. The ground floor of the house and most of the gardens are wheelchair accessible. Last admission one hour before closing time.
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NEWTOWNARDS & AROUND
pop 27,800
Founded in the 17th century on the site of the 6th-century Movilla monastery, Newtownards (Baile Nua na hArda) today is a busy but unexceptional commercial centre. The tourist information centre ( 9182 6846; tourism@ards-council.gov.uk; 31 Regent St; 9.15am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-5pm Sat) is next to the bus station.
There’s some fine 18th- and 19th-century architecture in the town, especially along Church St. Most striking of all is the 18th-century Market House, which once housed the town’s prison – you can ask to see an original cell – and is now home to the Ards Arts Centre ( 9181 0803; Conway Sq; admission free; 9am-5pm Mon-Thu, to 4.30pm Fri & Sat), which hosts changing art exhibitions. The square in front of the Market House hosts a lively market every Saturday, and a traditional harvest fair in September.
The remains of Movilla Abbey and its 13th-century church have been almost swallowed up by the forest of gravestones in Movilla Cemetery (on Old Movilla Rd, on the B172 towards Millisle). There are some interesting 12th- and 13th-century grave slabs (thought by some to be those of Knights Templar) amid the abbey ruins.
The bus station is on Regent St, near the tourist office. Bus 5 goes to Belfast (£2.60, 35 minutes, seven