Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [542]
Old Schoolhouse Inn ( 9754 1182; www.theoldschoolhouseinn.com; Ballydrain Rd, Comber; s/d £55/80; ) Just south of Castle Espie on the road to Nendrum, the characterful Old Schoolhouse has seven luxurious, modern rooms, each named for a former US president. The former classroom, now swathed in shades of deep claret and decorated with old musical instruments, houses an award-winning restaurant (three-course dinner costs £24; open 7pm to 10pm) serving local produce cooked in French country-kitchen style.
Old Post Office Tearoom ( 9754 3335; 191 Killinchy Rd, Lisbane; breakfast £3-5, lunch mains £7; 9.30am-5pm Mon-Sat) The thatched cottage that once housed the village post office has been lovingly converted into a tearoom and art gallery, with walls of cream plaster and bare stone, pine furniture and a wood-burning stove. It serves great coffee and home-baked scones, plus lunch specials such as lasagne and salad.
Nendrum Monastic Site
The Celtic monastic community of Nendrum (admission free; 24hr) was built in the 5th century under the guidance of St Mochaoi (St Mahee). It is much older than the Norman monastery at Grey Abbey on the opposite shore and couldn’t be more different. The scant remains provide a clear outline of its early plan, with the foundations of a number of churches, a round tower, beehive cells and other buildings, as well as three concentric stone ramparts and a monks’ cemetery, all in a wonderful island setting. A particularly interesting relic is the stone sundial that has been reconstructed using some of the original pieces. The minor road to Mahee Island from the lough’s western shore crosses a causeway to Reagh Island and then a bridge guarded by the ruined tower of 15th-century Mahee Castle.
The small visitor centre ( 9754 2547; admission free; 10am-6pm daily Easter-Sep, noon-4pm Sun only Oct-Easter) screens an excellent video comparing Nendrum with Grey Abbey, and there’s some interesting material about the concept of time and how we measure it, presented in a child-friendly fashion.
The site is signposted from Lisbane, on the A20, 5km south of Comber.
Killyleagh
pop 2200
Killyleagh (Cill O Laoch) is a former fishing village dominated by the impressive castle (closed to the public) of the Hamilton family. Built originally by John de Courcy in the 12th century, the Scottish-baronial-style reconstruction of 1850 sits on the original Norman motte and bailey. Outside the gatehouse, a plaque commemorates Sir Hans Sloane, the naturalist, born in Killyleagh in 1660, whose collection was the basis for the founding of the British Museum (London’s Sloane Square is named after him). The parish church houses the tombs of members of the Blackwood family (marquesses of Dufferin), who married into the Hamiltons in the 18th century.
In September the Magnus Barelegs Viking Festival (www.killyleagh.org/boatrace) features processions, craft fairs, live music and a Viking boat race on nearby Strangford Lough.
SLEEPING & EATING
Dufferin Coaching Inn ( 4482 1134; www.dufferincoachinginn.com; 35 High St; s/d from £45/70; ) The comfortable lounge in this lovely Georgian house, complete with coal-fired stove and free Sunday papers, was once the village bank – the manager’s office in the corner now houses a little library. The six plush rooms have crisp linen and fluffy towels, and some have four-poster beds; unusually, the smallest double has the bath in the bedroom, charmingly hidden behind a curtain. The excellent breakfasts include freshly squeezed orange juice, good coffee and scrambled eggs with smoked salmon.
Killyleagh Castle Towers ( 4482 8261; polly@killyleagh.plus.com; High St; 4-person apt per weekend/week £210/429; ) If you’ve ever fancied staying in a castle, Killyleagh’s three gatehouse towers (complete with spiral staircases and roof terraces) are available for weekly rental, including use of the castle gardens, swimming pool and tennis court. The two smaller towers