Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [544]
In the churchyard immediately south of the cathedral is a slab of Mourne granite with the inscription ‘Patric’, placed there by the Belfast Naturalists’ Field Club in 1900, marking the traditional site of St Patrick’s grave.
To reach the cathedral, go up the stairs to the right of the Saint Patrick Centre and turn left at the top, opposite Down County Museum.
DOWN COUNTY MUSEUM
Downhill from the cathedral is Down County Museum ( 4461 5218; www.downcountymuseum.com; The Mall; admission free; 10am-5pm Mon-Fri, 1-5pm Sat & Sun), housed in the town’s restored 18th-century jail. In a former cell block at the back are models of some of the prisoners once incarcerated there, and details of their sad stories. Displays cover the story of the Norman conquest of Down, but the biggest exhibit of all is outside – a short signposted trail leads to the Mound of Down, a good example of a Norman motte and bailey.
INCH ABBEY
Built by de Courcy for the Cistercians in 1180 on an earlier Irish monastic site, Inch Abbey ( 9181 1491; admission free; 24hr) is visible across the river from the cathedral. The English Cistercians had a strict policy of non-admittance for Irishmen and maintained this until the end in 1541. Most of the ruins are just foundations and low walls; the neatly groomed setting beside the marshes of the River Quoile is its most attractive feature.
To get there, head out of town on the A7 Belfast road for about 1.5km, then take the first left after crossing the river.
DOWNPATRICK & COUNTY DOWN RAILWAY
From mid-June to mid-September, plus December, St Patrick’s Day, Easter, May Day and Halloween, this working railway museum ( 4461 5779; www.downrail.co.uk; Market St; adult/child £5/4; 2-5pm Sat & Sun) runs steam-hauled trains over a restored section of the former Belfast–Newcastle line. There is a western terminus near Ballydugan, and a northern one close to Inch Abbey, plus a halt next to the grave of King Magnus Barefoot, a Norwegian king who died in battle on this spot in 1103. The ticket price includes a return journey on the train and a tour around the engine shed and signal cabin.
QUOILE COUNTRYSIDE CENTRE
A tidal barrier was built at Hare Island, 3km downstream from Downpatrick, in 1957 to control flooding. The waters enclosed by the barrier now form the Quoile Pondage Nature Reserve, whose ecology is explained at the Quoile Countryside Centre ( 4461 5520; 5 Quay Rd; admission free; reserve 24hr, visitor centre 10am-6pm daily Easter-Sep, noon-4pm Sun only Oct-Easter). The centre is housed in a little cottage beside the ruins of Quoile Castle, a 17th-century tower house. There’s a wheelchair-accessible birdwatching hide ( 10am-4pm daily) on Castle Island, downstream from the centre.
Sleeping & Eating
Ardpatrick Country House ( 4483 9434; www.ardpatrickcountryhouse.com; 108 Ballydugan Rd; s/d £33/56; ) You’ll get a warm welcome and a hearty breakfast at this luxurious, modern villa, set in open countryside about 4km southwest of the town centre on the A25. All three rooms are neat as a pin, and all have private bathrooms.
Denvir’s Hotel & Pub ( 4461 2012; www.denvirshotel.com; 14 English St; s/d £40/70) Recently taken over by Botanic Inns and awaiting a makeover, Denvir’s is an old coaching inn dating back to 1642 and is the only accommodation in the town centre. It offers B&B in six idiosyncratic rooms with pine floorboards, Georgian windows and period fireplaces. The rustic restaurant (mains £8 to £14; open noon to 2.30pm and 5pm to 9pm) has an enormous, original stone fireplace and serves hearty dishes such as smoked trout and Cashel Blue cheese tart, and homemade lasagne.
Mill at Ballydugan ( 4461 3654; www.ballyduganmill.com; Drumcullen Rd, Ballydugan; s/d/f £55/75/85; ) This giant, eight-storey, 18th-century mill building overlooking Ballydugan Lake has been restored