Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [552]
GETTING THERE & AWAY
In July and August only, the Ulsterbus 405 Mourne Rambler service runs a circular route from Newcastle, calling at a dozen stops around the Mournes, including Bryansford (8 minutes), Meelmore (17 minutes), Silent Valley (40 minutes), Carrick Little (45 minutes) and Bloody Bridge (one hour). There are six buses daily – the first leaves at 9.30am, the last at 5pm; a £5 all-day ticket allows you to get on and off as many times as you like.
Bus 34A (July and August only) runs from Newcastle to the Silent Valley car park (45 minutes, two daily), calling at Donard Park (five minutes) and Bloody Bridge (10 minutes).
Mournes Coast Road
The scenic drive south along the A2 coast road from Newcastle to Newry is the most memorable journey in Down. Annalong, Kilkeel and Rostrevor offer convenient stopping points from which you can detour into the mountains.
ANNALONG
The harbour at the fishing village of Annalong (Áth na Long) desperately wants to be picturesque, with an early 19th-century Corn Mill ( 4376 8736; Marine Park; adult/child £2.10/1.20; call to check opening times) overlooking the river mouth on one side. (Alas, the effect is spoiled a bit by graffiti and ugly buildings on the other side.)
You can overnight at the family-oriented Cornmill Quay Hostel ( 4376 8269; www.cornmillquay.com; Marine Park; dm adult/child £17/12, d £46; ), set in a pretty little cottage courtyard above the harbour. There are also four self-catering cottages (from £375 a week in high season).
The Harbour Inn ( 4376 8678; 6 Harbour Dr; mains £7-16; food 12.30-2.30pm, 5-8pm Sun-Fri, 12.30-9pm Sat) has an attractive lounge bar with sofas arranged along the picture windows beside the harbour, and an upstairs restaurant with a great view of the Mournes.
KILKEEL
Kilkeel (Cill Chaoil, meaning ‘church of the narrow place’) takes its name from the 14th-century Church of St Colman, whose ruins stand in the graveyard across the street from the tourist office. The town has a busy commercial fishing harbour and a quayside fish market supplied by Northern Ireland’s largest fishing fleet.
The tourist information centre ( 4176 2525; kdakilkeel@hotmail.com; Rooney Rd; 9am-1pm & 2-5.30pm Easter-Dec) is in the Nautilus Centre next to the harbour.
ROSTREVOR
Rostrevor (Caislean Ruairi) is a pretty Victorian seaside resort famed for its lively pubs. Each year in late July, folk musicians converge on the village for the Fiddler’s Green International Festival ( 4173 9819; www.fiddlersgreenfestival.co.uk).
Most of the town’s other noted pubs also have regular live music on offer. The best ones to eat in are the Kilbroney ( 4173 8390; 31 Church St) and the Celtic Fjord ( 4173 8005; 8 Mary St).
To the east is Kilbroney Forest Park ( 4173 8134; Shore Rd; admission free; 9am-10pm Jun-Aug, to 5pm Sep-May). From the car park at the top of the forest drive, a 10-minute hike leads up to a superb view over the lough to Carlingford Mountain, as well as to the Cloughmore Stone, a 30-tonne granite boulder inscribed with Victorian graffiti.
Warrenpoint
pop 7000
Warrenpoint (An Pointe) is a Victorian resort at the head of Carlingford Lough, its seaside appeal somewhat diminished by the large industrial harbour at the west end of town. Its broad streets, main square and renovated prom are pleasant enough, though, and it has better sleeping and eating options than either Newry or Rostrevor, including a couple of excellent restaurants.
The tourist information centre ( 4175 2256; Church St; 9am-1pm & 2-5pm Mon-Fri Oct-May, also Sat & Sun Jun-Sep) is in the town hall.
About 2km northwest of the town centre is Narrow Water Castle ( 9181 1491; admission free; 10am-6pm Fri only Jul & Aug), a fine Elizabethan tower house built in 1568 to command the entrance to the Newry River.
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TOP 10 RESTAURANTS IN NORTHERN IRELAND (OUTSIDE BELFAST)
55 Degrees North
Copper (below)
Grace Neill’s Click here
Jeffers by the Marina
Lime Tree
Mourne Seafood Bar
Terrace Restaurant
Plough Inn
Restaurant