Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [555]
Bessbrook
pop 3150
Bessbrook (An Sruthán) was founded in the mid-19th century by Quaker linen manufacturer John Grubb Richardson as a ‘model village’ to house the workers at his flax mill. Rows of pretty terraced houses made from local granite line the two main squares, Charlemont and College, each with a green in the middle, and are complemented by a town hall, school, bathhouse and dispensary. It is said that Bessbrook was the inspiration for Bournville (near Birmingham in England), the model village built by the Cadbury family for their chocolate factory.
At the centre of the village is the massive Bessbrook Mill. Requisitioned by the British Army in 1970, it served as a military base for more than 30 years – the helipad here was reputedly the busiest in Europe – until the troops moved out in 2007. Plans to convert the mill building into social housing and a new cultural complex were thwarted when it was given listed status in 2008. Its future is now uncertain.
Just south of Bessbrook is Derrymore House ( 8778 4753; house tour £3.70; gardens 10am-6pm May-Sep, to 4pm Oct-Apr), an elegant thatched cottage built in 1776 for Isaac Corry, the Irish MP for Newry for 30 years; the Act of Union was drafted in the drawing room here in 1800. The house is only open on a handful of days each year – call or check the National Trust website (www.nationaltrust.org.uk) – but the surrounding parkland, laid out by John Sutherland (1745–1826), one of the most celebrated disciples of English landscape gardener Capability Brown, offers scenic trails with views to the Ring of Gullion.
Bessbrook is 5km northwest of Newry. Bus 41 runs from Newry to Bessbrook (15 minutes, hourly Monday to Saturday), while buses 42 (to Crossmaglen) and 44 (to Armagh) pass the entrance to Derrymore House on the A25 Camlough road.
Ring of Gullion
The Ring of Gullion is a magical region steeped in Celtic legend, centred on Slieve Gullion (Sliabh gCuilinn; 576m), where the Celtic warrior Cúchulainn is said to have taken his name after killing the dog (cú) belonging to the smith Culainn. The ‘ring’ is a necklace of rugged hills strung between Newry and Forkhill, 15km to the southwest, encircling the central whaleback ridge of Slieve Gullion. This unusual concentric formation is a geological structure known as a ring dyke.
KILLEVY CHURCHES
Surrounded by beech trees, these ruined, conjoined churches (admission free; 24hr) were constructed on the site of a 5th-century nunnery that was founded by St Moninna. The eastern church dates from the 15th century, and shares a gable wall with the 12th-century western one. The west door, with a massive lintel and granite jambs, may be 200 years older still. At the side of the churchyard, a footpath leads uphill to a white cross that marks St Moninna’s holy well.
The churches are 6km south of Camlough, on a minor road to Meigh. Look out for a crossroads with a sign pointing west to the churches and east to Bernish Rock Viewpoint.
SLIEVE GULLION FOREST PARK
A 13km scenic drive through this forest park (admission free; 8am-dusk) provides picturesque views over the surrounding hills. From the parking and picnic area at the top of the drive, you can hike to the summit of Slieve Gullion, the highest point in County Armagh, topped by two early Bronze Age cairns and a tiny lake (1.5km round trip). The park entrance is 10km southwest of Newry on the B113 road to Forkhill.
MULLAGHBANE & FORKHILL
In the village of Mullaghbane (Mullach Bán), just west of Slieve Gullion, is Tí Chulainn ( 3088 8828; www.tichulainn.com; admission free; 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 11am-12.30pm Sat), a cultural activities centre that promotes the Irish language, local folklore, traditional music and storytelling. The centre houses an exhibition, craft shop and cafe. It also offers hostel-type accommodation (£45 for a room sleeping up to three people).
The pubs in nearby Forkhill hold traditional music sessions on Tuesday nights and alternate Saturdays, and a folk music festival in October.
Crossmaglen
pop 1600
Crossmaglen (Crois Mhic Lionnáin), arranged