Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [571]
Mange 2 (Map; 7136 1222; 110-115 Strand Rd; mains £13-19; noon-2.30pm Tue-Fri, noon-3.30pm Sun & 5-10pm Tue-Sun) Mange 2 may have moved from its old Georgian home to a shiny, new, glass-fronted venue on the riverfront, but the menu is still faithful to top-quality Irish produce served plain or with an Asian- or French-fusion twist – try Finnebrogue venison with sweet potato purée, pan-seared spinach and redcurrant jus; or Donegal smoked cod with champ, buttered cabbage and chive sauce.
SELF-CATERING
Tesco (Map; 0845 677 9639; Quayside Shopping Centre, Strand Rd; 9am-9pm Mon-Thu, 8.30am-9pm Fri, 8.30am-8pm Sat, 1-6pm Sun) Self-caterers can stock up at this big supermarket, just north of the walled city.
Drinking
Whatever you do in Derry, don’t miss an evening in the city’s lively pubs – for the craic rather than the beer, which is nothing to write home about. They’re friendly and atmospheric, mostly open until 1am, and are within easy walking distance of each other – there are six within dancing distance along Waterloo St.
Peadar O’Donnell’s (Map; 7137 2138; 63 Waterloo St) A backpackers’ favourite, Peadar’s goes for traditional music sessions every night and often on weekend afternoons as well. It’s done up as a typical Irish pub-cum-grocer, down to the shelves of grocery items, shopkeepers scales on the counter and a museum’s-worth of old bric-a-brac.
Badgers Bar (Map; 7136 0763; 16-18 Orchard St) A fine polished-brass and stained-glass Victorian pub crammed with wood-panelled nooks and crannies, Badgers overflows at lunchtime with shoppers enjoying quality pub grub, and offers a quiet haven in the evenings when it attracts a crowd of more mature drinkers.
Café del Mondo (Map; 7126 8228; 4 Shipquay St; 8.30am-5pm Mon-Sat) A newly opened Bohemian cafe that serves excellent fairtrade coffee, at the time of research del Mondo was planning a Sunday-night music club – call in to see what’s on the program.
Entertainment
Check out the Entertainment/Northern Beats page at www.derryjournal.com for news of what’s coming up on Derry’s live music scene.
CLUBS & LIVE MUSIC
Sandino’s Café-Bar (Map; 7130 9297; www.sandinos.com; 1 Water St; admission free, live bands £4; 11.30am-1am Mon-Sat, 1pm-midnight Sun) From the posters of Ché to the Free Palestine flag to the fairtrade coffee, this relaxed cafe-bar exudes a liberal, left-wing vibe. There are live bands on Friday nights and occasionally midweek, and DJ sessions on Saturdays. On Sundays there’s a traditional Irish music session at 5pm, and live jazz/soul or DJs from 9pm, plus regular theme nights, fundraising nights and political events.
Mason’s Bar (Map; 7136 0177; 10 Magazine St; admission free-£12) The city that spawned the Undertones is still turning out raw, rumbustious live music;Mason’s Wednesday- and Friday-night sessions, kicking off at 6pm, are the place to catch the latest offerings from local talent. There are three or four acts each week, as well as open-mic nights on Mondays, occasional live bands on Saturdays and trad music sessions on Sundays at 6pm.
Earth@Café Roc (Map; 7136 0556; 129-135 Strand Rd) Derry’s main nightclub and bar complex, close to the university, was closed for a major refurbishment at the time of research; check out www.bebo.com/earth_roc for what’s on when it re-opens.
Gweedore Bar (Map; 7126 3513; 59-61 Waterloo St; admission £6-10) Next door to Peadar O’Donnell’s and part of the same complex, the Gweedore Bar hosts live rock bands most nights, while the DJ bar upstairs is home to Jika Jika, the city’s best house-music club (last Friday of month).
CONCERTS, THEATRE & CINEMA
Millennium Forum (Map; 7126 4455; www.millenniumforum.co.uk; Newmarket St) Ireland’s biggest theatre auditorium is a major venue for dance, drama, concerts, opera and musicals.
Nerve Centre (Map; 7126 0562; www.nerve-centre.org.uk; 7-8 Magazine St) The