Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [573]
Bus Éireann ( in Donegal 353-742 1309) service 64 runs from Derry to Galway (£18, 5¼ hours, three daily, two on Sundays) via Letterkenny, Donegal and Sligo; another four a day terminate at Sligo.
The Airporter (Map; 7126 9996; www.airporter.co.uk; Quayside Shopping Centre, Strand Rd) bus service runs direct from Derry to Belfast International (one-way/return £18/28, 1½ hours) and George Best Belfast City (same fare, two hours) airports. Buses depart every 90 minutes Monday to Friday, every two hours on Saturday and Sunday.
TRAIN
Derry’s train station (always referred to as Londonderry in Northern Ireland timetables) is on the eastern side of the River Foyle; a free Rail Link bus connects it with the bus station on Foyle St. Trains to Belfast (£10, 2¼ hours, seven or eight daily Monday to Saturday, four on Sunday) are slower but more comfortable than the bus, and the section of line between Derry and Coleraine is very scenic. There are also frequent trains to Coleraine (£7.50, 45 minutes, seven daily), with connections to Portrush (£9, 1¼ hours).
* * *
TOP FIVE B&BS IN NORTHERN IRELAND
Anna’s House B&B (County Down;)
Briers Country House (County Down;)
Fortwilliam Country House (County Down;)
Merchant’s House (County Derry;)
Whitepark House B&B (County Antrim;)
* * *
Getting Around
Bus 143A to Limavady stops at City of Derry airport (30 minutes, seven daily Monday to Friday, three Saturday, one Sunday); otherwise a taxi costs about £12.
The local Ulsterbus Foyle buses leave from Foyle St, outside the bus station, with 13 routes leading to the suburbs and surrounding villages; a day ticket giving unlimited travel on these buses costs £1.50.
The Derry Taxi Association ( 7126 0247) and Foyle Delta Cabs ( 7127 9999) operate from the city centre to all areas.
The Foyle Valley cycle route runs through Derry, along the west bank of the river, on the way to Strabane.
Return to beginning of chapter
LIMAVADY & AROUND
pop 12,000
Enchanted by a folk tune played by a blind fiddler outside her window in 1851, Limavady resident Jane Ross (1810–79) jotted down the melody – then known as O’Cahan’s Lament, and later as the Londonderry Air. She had written down for the first time the tune that came to be known around the world as ‘Danny Boy’ – probably the most famous Irish song of all time.
Limavady was granted to Sir Thomas Phillips, the organiser of the Plantation of County Londonderry, by James I in 1612, after the last ruling chief, Sir Donnell Ballagh O’Cahan, was found guilty of rebellion (Click here for more on the Plantation). Its original Gaelic name Léim an Mhadaidh means ‘The Dog’s Leap’, and it commemorates one of the O’Cahans’ dogs that jumped a gorge across the River Roe to bring warning of an unexpected enemy attack.
The tourist office ( 7776 0307; 7 Connell St; 9am-5pm Mon-Fri Sep-Jun, to 5.45pm Jul & Aug, also 9.30am-5.30pm Sat May-Sep) is northeast of the town centre in the Limavady Borough Council Offices.
Sights & Activities
Today Limavady is a quiet and prosperous small town. There’s not much to see except the blue plaque on the wall at 51 Main St, opposite the Alexander Arms, commemorating the home of Jane Ross. The town hosts a jazz and blues festival (www.limavadyjazzandblues.com) in June.
The lovely Roe Valley Country Park, about 3km south of Limavady, has riverside walks stretching for 5km either side of the River Roe. The area is associated with the O’Cahans, who ruled the valley until the Plantation. The 17th-century settlers saw the flax-growing potential of the damp river valley and the area became an important linen-manufacturing centre.
The Dogleap Centre ( 7772 2074; Roe Valley Country Park, 41 Dogleap Rd; admission free; 10am-6pm Easter-Sep, to 5pm Oct-Easter) houses a visitor