Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [587]
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In spring and summer, rugged Rathlin Island (Reachlainn), 6km offshore from Ballycastle, is home to hundreds of seals and thousands of nesting seabirds. An L-shaped island just 6.5km long and 4km wide, Rathlin is famous for the coastal scenery and bird life at Kebble National Nature Reserve at its western end. RSPB West Light Viewpoint ( 2076 0062; admission free; 11am-3pm Apr–mid-Sep) provides stunning views of the neighbouring sea stacks, thick with guillemots, kittiwakes, razorbills and puffins from mid-April to August. During the summer a minibus service runs there from the harbour; public toilets and binocular hire are available.
If you don’t have time to visit Kebble, the best short walk on the island is through the National Trust’s Ballyconagan Nature Reserve to the Old Coastguard Lookout on the north coast, with great views along the sea cliffs and across to the Scottish islands of Islay and Jura.
The Boathouse Visitor Centre ( 2076 2024; admission free; 10.30am-4pm May-Aug), south of the harbour, details the history, culture and ecology of the island, and can give advice on walks and wildlife. Paul Quinn ( 7032 7960, 07745 566924; www.rathlinwalkingtours.com) offers guided walking tours of the island.
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WALK: FAIR HEAD
From the National Trust car park at Coolanlough, a waymarked path leads north past a small lake dotted with tiny islands, one of which is a crannóg (Neolithic island settlement). After 1.5km you arrive at the top of the impressive 180m-high basalt cliffs that mark Fair Head. The cliffs, one of Ireland’s most important rock-climbing areas, are split here by a spectacular gully bridged by a fallen rock, known as the Grey Man’s Path. The panorama of sea and islands extends from Rathlin Island in the west (to your left), with the Scottish island of Islay to its right, followed by the three pointed hills of Jura, to the dark mass of the Mull of Kintyre and the tiny island of Sanda. To the east is the squat cone of Ailsa Craig with the coast of Ayrshire far beyond.
Turn right and follow the faint trail south along the cliff tops for 1.5km until you reach the upper car park on the Murlough Bay road. From here, another faint path, marked by yellow paint marks, strikes west for 1km back to Coolanlough. (Total 4km. Allow one to two hours.)
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The island’s most illustrious visitor was Scottish hero Robert the Bruce, who spent some time here in 1306 while hiding out after being defeated by the English king. Watching a spider’s resoluteness in repeatedly trying to spin a web gave him the courage to have another go at the English, whom he subsequently defeated at Bannockburn. The cave where he is said to have stayed is beneath the East Lighthouse, at the northeastern tip of the island.
Sleeping & Eating
The island has a pub and restaurant, two shops and a handful of accommodation options; it is essential to book your accommodation in advance. You can camp for free on the eastern side of Church Bay in a field not far from the harbour.
Kinramer Camping Barn ( 2076 3948; alison.mcfaul@rspb.org.uk; Kinramer; dm £9) This is a basic bunkhouse located on an organic farm, 5km (a one-hour walk) west from the harbour, where you bring your own food and bedding; book in advance. You might be able to get a lift there on one of the island minibuses.
Soerneog View Hostel ( 2076 3954; www.n-irelandholidays.co.uk/rathlin; Ouig; s/d £12.50/20; Apr-Sep) A private house, a 10-minute walk south of the harbour, Soerneog offers basic hostel-style accommodation in one double and two twin rooms.
Coolnagrock B&B ( 2076 3983; Coolnagrock; s/d £30/50; closed Dec) This well-appointed guesthouse is in the eastern part of the island, with great views across the sea to Kintyre. It’s a 15-minute walk from the ferry, but you can arrange for the owner to pick you up.
Manor House ( 2076 3964; www.rathlinmanorhouse.co.uk; Church Quarter; s/d £40/70) Restored and run by the National Trust, the 18th-century Manor House, on the north side of the harbour, is the island’s biggest (12 rooms) and most pleasant place