Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [595]
Slemish
The skyline to the east of Ballymena is dominated by the distinctive craggy peak of Slemish (438m). The hill is one of many sites in the North associated with Ireland’s patron saint – the young St Patrick is said to have tended goats on its slopes. On St Patrick’s Day, thousands of people make a pilgrimage to its summit; the rest of the year it’s a pleasant climb, though steep and slippery in wet weather, rewarded with a fine view (allow one hour return from the parking area).
Arthur Cottage
The ancestors of Chester Alan Arthur (1830–86), 21st president of the USA, lived in an 18th-century thatched cottage ( 2563 5900; Dreen, Cullybackey; adult/child £2/1; 10.30am-4pm Thu-Sat Easter-Sep) in Cullybackey, about 6km northwest of Ballymena.
Cullybackey is a stop on the Belfast–Derry railway line.
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Counties Fermanagh & Tyrone
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COUNTY FERMANAGH
ENNISKILLEN
AROUND ENNISKILLEN
UPPER LOUGH ERNE
LOWER LOUGH ERNE
WEST OF LOUGH ERNE
COUNTY TYRONE
OMAGH
AROUND OMAGH
SPERRIN MOUNTAINS
COOKSTOWN & AROUND
DUNGANNON & AROUND
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The ancient landscape of Fermanagh is shaped by ice and water, with rugged hills rising above quilted plains of half-drowned drumlins and shimmering, reed-fringed lakes. A glance at the map shows the county is around one-third water – as the locals will tell you, the lakes are in Fermanagh for six months of the year; for the other six, Fermanagh is in the lakes.
This watery maze is a natural playground for anglers – the loughs and rivers are stuffed with trout and pike – and for boaters. You can hire a motor cruiser and spend a week or two navigating the scenic waterways of Lough Erne and the River Shannon, which together form a 750km network of rivers, lakes and canals. If you prefer your boats without engines, the 50km Lough Erne Canoe Trail is a paddler’s paradise.
The limestone ridges to the south of Lough Erne are riddled with caves – at Marble Arch you can explore an underground river – while the higher hills are swathed with blanket bog, a rare and endangered habitat. This is all grand walking country, but there are also rainy-day attractions, such as the contrasting stately homes of Florence Court and Castle Coole, and the world-famous pottery at Belleek.
County Tyrone – from Tír Eoghain (Land of Owen, a legendary chieftain) – is the homeland of the O’Neill clan, and is dominated by the tweed-tinted moorlands of the Sperrin Mountains, whose southern flanks are dotted with prehistoric sites. Apart from the hiking opportunities offered by these heather-clad hills, the county’s main attraction is the Ulster American Folk Park, a fascinating outdoor museum celebrating Ulster’s historic links with the USA.
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HIGHLIGHTS
Climb to the Lost World Hike over rare blanket bog to the remote summit of Cuilcagh Mountain
Faces from the Past Ponder the meaning of the strange stone figures on White Island and Boa Island
River of Adventure Follow the course of an underground river as it flows through the Marble Arch Caves
Blazing Paddles Hire a canoe and explore the reed-fringed backwaters of Lough Erne
The American Connection Learn about the historical links between Ireland and the USA at the Ulster American Folk Park
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TELEPHONE CODE: 028 FROM UK; 048 FROM REPUBLIC OF IRELAND
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POPULATION: 227,000
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AREA: 4846 SQ KM
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COUNTY FERMANAGH
ENNISKILLEN
pop 13,600
Perched amid the web of waterways that link Upper and Lower Lough Erne, Enniskillen (Inis Ceithleann, meaning Ceithleann’s Island, after a legendary woman warrior) is an appealing town with a mile-long main street that rides the roller-coaster spine of the island’s drumlin. (The locals say you’re only a true Enniskilliner if you were born ‘between the bridges’; that is, on the town’s central island.) Its attractive waterside setting, bustling with boats in summer, plus a range of lively pubs and restaurants, make Enniskillen a good base for exploring Upper