Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [601]
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LOWER LOUGH ERNE
Lower Lough Erne is a much more open expanse of water than the Upper Lough, with its 90-odd islands clustered mainly in the southern reaches. In early Christian times, when overland travel was difficult, Lough Erne was an important highway between the Donegal coast and inland Leitrim, and there are many ancient religious sites and other antiquities dotted around its shores. In medieval times the lough was part of an important pilgrimage route to Station Island in Lough Derg, County Donegal.
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ULSTER WAY
The Ulster Way long-distance walking trail makes a circuit around the six counties of Northern Ireland and Donegal. In total the route covers just over 900km, so walking all of it might take four to five weeks. However, much of the way is on minor roads rather than footpaths, a criticism which has been taken on board by the Northern Ireland Tourist Board (NITB), who are ‘relaunching’ the Ulster Way and dividing it into ‘Quality Sections’ – good, scenic, off-road walking – separated by Link Sections which can be covered by public transport. Check the WalkNI website (www.walkni.com) for the latest info.
Short sections of the Ulster Way that make good day walks include Cuilcagh Mountain (boxed text, Click here) and the Causway Coast Way (boxed text, Click here).
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The following sights are described travelling anticlockwise around the lough from Enniskillen.
Devenish Island
Devenish Island (from Daimh Inis, meaning Ox Island) is the biggest of several ‘holy islands’ in Lough Erne. The remains of an Augustinian monastery, founded here in the 6th century by St Molaise, include a superb 12th-century round tower in near perfect condition, the ruins of St Molaise’s Church and St Mary’s Abbey, an unusual 15th-century high cross, and many fascinating old gravestones. Four ladders allow you to climb to the top of the round tower for a cramped view out of the five tiny windows.
A speedboat ferry ( 6862 1588; adult/child return £3/2; 10am, 1pm, 3pm & 5pm daily Apr-Sep) crosses to Devenish Island from Trory Point landing. From Enniskillen, take the A32 towards Irvinestown and after 5km look for the sign on the left, just after a service station and immediately before the junction where the B82 and A32 part company. At the foot of the hill by the lough, turn left for the jetty.
You can also visit as part of a cruise with Erne Tours from Enniskillen.
Killadeas
The churchyard at Killadeas, 11km north of Enniskillen on the B82, contains several unusual carved stones. Most famous is the 1m-high Bishop’s Stone, dating from between the 7th and 9th centuries, which has a Celtic head reminiscent of the White Island figures (Click here) carved on its narrow western edge, and an engraving of a bishop with bell and crozier on the side. Located nearby is a slab set on edge, with several deep cup-marks – possibly bullauns (ancient grinding stones) – on one side, and a cross within a circle on the other. You will also find a broken phallic column and a large, perforated stone.
SLEEPING & EATING
The Manor House Country Hotel ( 6862 2211; www.manor-house-hotel.com; Killadeas; s/d from £105/130; ) is a grand, 19th-century country house overlooking Lough Erne. It has had a thorough makeover in neoclassical style, complete with a Greek temple–style lobby, Romanesque pool and Jacuzzis with a view over the lough. The public areas are impressive but the rooms, though luxurious, are a bit on the bland side. The hotel’s Watergate Lounge serves decent pub grub (mains £9 to £17), and has live music at weekends.
Castle Archdale Country Park
This park ( 6862 1588; Lisnarick; admission free; 9am-dusk) has pleasant woodland and lakeshore walks and cycle tracks in the former estate of 18th-century Archdale Manor. The island-filled bay was used