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on a ‘floating’ bed of gravel and geotextiles – boardwalks off to one side offer a closer look at bog regeneration areas. The gravel track comes to an end at a gate about 4.5km from the start. From here you follow a line of waymarked wooden posts, squelching your way across spongy bog (don’t stray from the route – there are deep bog holes where you can get stuck) before climbing steeply up to the summit ridge, with great views west to the crags above little Lough Atona. The waymarkers come to an end here, so you’re on your own for the final kilometre across the plateau, aiming for the prominent cairn on the summit (a map and compass are essential in poor visibility).

The summit cairn is actually a Neolithic burial chamber; about 100m south of the summit you will find two rings of boulders, the foundations of prehistoric huts. On a clear day the view extends from the Blue Stack Mountains of Donegal to Croagh Patrick, and from the Atlantic Ocean to the Irish Sea. Return the way you came.

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Costumed guides and artisans are on hand to explain the arts of spinning, weaving, candle-making and so on, and various events are held throughout the year, including reenactments of American Civil War battles, a festival of traditional Irish music in May, American Independence Day celebrations in July, and the Appalachian and Bluegrass Music Festival in September. There’s almost too much to absorb in one visit and at least half a day is needed to do the place justice.

The park is 8km northwest of Omagh on the A5. Goldliner bus 273 from Belfast to Derry (hourly Monday to Saturday, five on Sunday) stops in Omagh, and will stop on request at the park gates.

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SPERRIN MOUNTAINS

When representatives of the London guilds visited Ulster in 1609 the Lord Deputy of Ireland made sure they were kept well away from the Sperrin Mountains, fearing that the sight of these bleak, moorland hills would put them off the idea of planting settlers here. And when it rains there’s no denying that the Sperrins can be dismal, but on a sunny spring day, when the russet bogs and yellow gorse stand out against a clear blue sky, they can offer some grand walking. The area is also dotted with thousands of standing stones and prehistoric tombs.

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TOP FIVE TRADITIONAL PUBS IN NORTHERN IRELAND

Bittle’s Bar

Blake’s of the Hollow

Grace Neill’s Click here

Dufferin Arms

Peadar O’Donnell’s Click here

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The main ridge of the Sperrins stretches for 30km along the border with County Derry. The highest summit is Mt Sawel (678m), rising above the B47 road from Plumbridge to Draperstown, a right little roller-coaster of a road that undulates across the southern slopes of the Sperrins. Halfway along it you’ll find the Sperrin Heritage Centre ( 8164 8142; 274 Glenelly Rd, Cranagh; adult/child £2.70/1.65; 11.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat, 2-6pm Sun Easter-Oct) which offers an insight into the culture, natural history and geology of the region. Gold has been found in the Sperrins, and for a bit extra (adult/child 85/45p) you can try your luck at panning for gold in a nearby stream. (At the time of research there was some doubt over the centre’s future – call ahead to make sure it’s open.)

If you’re thinking of walking up Mt Sawel, enquire at the Sperrin Heritage Centre about the best route. The climb is easy enough in good weather, but some farmers are not as accommodating as others about hikers crossing their land.

Gortin

The village of Gortin, about 15km north of Omagh, lies at the foot of Mullaghcarn (542m), the southernmost of the Sperrin summits (unfortunately capped by two prominent radio masts). Hundreds of hikers converge for a mass ascent of the hill on Cairn Sunday (the last Sunday in July), a revival of an ancient pilgrimage that first petered out in the 19th century. There are several good walks around the village, and a scenic drive to Gortin Lakes, with views north to the main Sperrin ridge.

A few kilometres south of Gortin, towards Omagh, is Gortin Glen Forest Park ( 8167 0666; Gortin Rd;