Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [75]
Bordering the eastern side of Smithfield Plaza is the Old Jameson Distillery. In keeping with the area’s traditional past, the old fruit and vegetable market still plies a healthy wholesale trade on the square’s western side, where amid the new developments is the excellent Lighthouse Cinema (Click here).
NATIONAL MUSEUM OF IRELAND – DECORATIVE ARTS & HISTORY
So much for the austere life of a soldier. Until it was decommissioned over a decade ago, Collins Barracks, built in 1704 on the orders of Queen Anne, was the largest military barracks in the world. In 1997 the early neoclassical grey stone building on the Liffey’s northern bank was given a sparkling, modern makeover and now houses the decorative arts and history collection of the National Museum of Ireland (Map; 677 7444; www.museum.ie; Benburb St; admission free; 10am-5pm Tue-Sat, 2-5pm Sun). The exhibits are good, but the building is stunning: at its heart is the huge central square surrounded by arcaded colonnades and blocks linked by walking bridges. While wandering about the plaza, imagine it holding up to six regiments in formation. The whole shebang is the work of Thomas Burgh (1670–1730), who also designed the Old Library in Trinity College and St Michan’s Church.
Inside the imposing exterior lies a treasure trove of artefacts ranging from silver, ceramics and glassware to weaponry, furniture and folk-life displays. Some of the best pieces are gathered in the ‘Curator’s Choice’ exhibition, a collection of 25 objects hand-picked by different curators, displayed with an account of why they were chosen.
The museum itself offers a glimpse of Ireland’s social, economic and military history over the last millennium. It’s a big ask – too big, say its critics – but well-designed displays, interactive multimedia and a dizzying array of disparate artefacts make for an interesting and valiant effort. On the 1st floor is the museum’s Irish silver collection, one of the largest collections of silver in the world; on the 2nd floor you’ll find Irish period furniture and scientific instruments, while the 3rd floor has simple and sturdy Irish country furniture.
Lovers of modern furniture and design will enjoy the exhibition on iconic Irish designer Eileen Gray (1878–1976), a museum highlight. Gray was one of the most influential designers of the 20th century, and the exhibition documents her life and work, with examples of her most famous pieces. The fascinating exhibit ‘The Way We Wore’ displays Irish clothing and jewellery from the past 250 years. An intriguing sociocultural study, it highlights the role of jewellery and clothing in communicating messages of mourning, love and identity.
As it was once a barracks, it’s fitting that military history should be a feature: one exhibition chronicles Ireland’s Easter 1916 Rising, while the new ‘Soldiers & Chiefs: The Irish at War Home & Abroad 1550–2001’ explores the civil impact of conflict through original artefacts, audio accounts and replicas. At times harrowing and visceral, these exhibits bring to life these poignant episodes of Irish history with remarkable force.
OLD JAMESON DISTILLERY
Smithfield’s biggest draw is the Old Jameson Distillery (Map; 807 2355; www.jameson.ie; Bow St; adult/child/student €13.50/8/10; tours every 35min 9am-5.30pm), a huge museum devoted to uisce beatha (the water of life). To its more serious devotees, that is precisely what whiskey is, although they may be put off by the slickness of the museum, which shepherds visitors through a compulsory tour of the re-created factory and into the ubiquitous gift shop.
On the way, however, there’s plenty to discover. Beginning with a short film, the tour runs through the whole process of distilling,