Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [80]
The loveliest stretch of the canal is just southwest, between Mount St Bridge and Baggot St. The grassy, tree-lined banks were a favourite haunt of the poet Patrick Kavanagh, whose difficult love affair with the city is echoed in the hauntingly beautiful ‘On Raglan Road’, later put to music by Van Morrison. Another Kavanagh poem requested that he be commemorated by ‘a canal bank seat for passers-by’, and his friends obliged with a seat beside the lock on the southern side of the canal. A little further along on the northern side you can sit down beside Kavanagh himself, cast in bronze, comfortably lounging on a bench and watching his beloved canal.
Just southeast of the city centre, beyond the canal, is Ballsbridge (Map), the epitome of posh Dublin and home to most of the embassies and a batch of luxurious B&Bs. The main attractions around it are the Royal Dublin Society Showground and the newly rebuilt Lansdowne Road rugby stadium (Map), reopening in 2010 and renamed the Aviva Stadium, though Herbert Park (Map) is also a favourite spot for sport, walking or just sitting around.
ROYAL DUBLIN SOCIETY SHOWGROUND
The Royal Dublin Society Showground (RDS Showground; Map; 668 9878; Merrion Rd, Ballsbridge), about 15 minutes from the city centre by bus 7 from Trinity College, is used for various exhibitions throughout the year. The society was founded in 1731 and has had its headquarters in a number of well-known Dublin buildings, including Leinster House from 1814 to 1925. The society was involved in the foundation of the National Museum (Click here and Click here), National Library, National Gallery and National Botanic Gardens. The most important annual event at the showground is the August Dublin Horse Show ( tickets 668 0866), which includes an international showjumping contest. Ask at the tourist office or consult a listings magazine for other events.
SHAW BIRTHPLACE
OK, so it’s technically on the city side of the canal, but only just. Noted playwright George Bernard Shaw was born and lived until the age of 10 in what is now home to a museum (Map; 475 0854; 33 Synge St; adult/child/student €6/4/5; 10am-1pm & 2-5pm Mon-Sat year-round, plus 11am-1pm & 2-5pm Sun May-Sep) dedicated to him and the times he grew up in. The museum has an audio presentation of Shaw’s life, re-creating a Victorian household.
Note that it’s possible to buy a combination ticket (adult/student/child €11.50/9.50/7.50) that also gives you access to the Dublin Writers’ Museum and the James Joyce Museum in Sandycove.
To get to the museum, take bus 16, 19 or 122 from Trinity College.
IRISH-JEWISH MUSEUM
Just around the corner from the Shaw House is the Irish-Jewish Museum (Map; 453 1797; 4 Walworth Rd; admission free; 11am-3.30pm Tue, Thu & Sun May-Sep, 10.30am-2.30pm Sun only Oct-Apr). Located in an old synagogue, the museum was opened in 1985 by the then Israeli president, Chaim Herzog, who was actually born in Belfast. Dublin’s small but culturally important Jewish population is remembered through photographs, paintings, certificates, books and other memorabilia.
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ACTIVITIES
Beaches & Swimming
Dublin is hardly the sort of place to work on your suntan, and even a hot Irish summer day is unlikely to raise the water temperature much above freezing. However, there are some pleasant beaches. Many Joyce fans feel compelled to take a dip in Forty Foot Pool at Sandycove. Sandy beaches to the north of Dublin include Sutton (11km), Portmarnock (15km), Malahide (17km), Claremount (14km) and Donabate (21km). Although the beach at Sandymount is nothing special, it is only 5km southeast of central Dublin. Take bus 3 from Fleet St.
The National Aquatic Centre (Map; 646 4300; www.nationalacquaticcentre.ie; Snugborough Rd, Blanchardstown; adult/child & student €14/12; 6am-10pm Mon-Fri, 9am-8pm Sat & Sun) is the largest indoor water park in the country. Besides