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Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [86]

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to Joyce fanatics and tourists, but it’s plenty of fun and a great way to lay the groundwork for actually reading what could be the second-hardest book written in the 20th century (the hardest, of course, being Joyce’s follow-up blockbuster Finnegan’s Wake, the greatest book never to be read).

In general, events are designed to follow Bloom’s progress around town, and in recent years festivities have expanded to continue over four days around 16 June. On Bloomsday proper you can kick things off with breakfast at the James Joyce Cultural Centre, where the ‘inner organs of beast and fowl’ come accompanied by celebratory readings.

In the morning, guided tours of Joycean sites usually leave from the General Post Office and the James Joyce Cultural Centre. Lunch-time activity focuses on Davy Byrne’s (Map; Duke St), Joyce’s ‘moral pub’, where Bloom paused to dine on a glass of burgundy and a slice of gorgonzola. Street entertainers are likely to keep you amused through the afternoon as you take guided walks and watch animated readings from Ulysses and Joyce’s other books; there’s a reading at Ormond Quay Hotel (Map; Ormond Quay) at 4pm and Harrisons (Map; Westmoreland St) in the late afternoon.

Events also take place in the days leading up to and following Bloomsday. The best source of information about what’s on in any particular year is likely to be the James Joyce Cultural Centre or the free Dublin Event Guide, close to the date.

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You can pay anything from €80 to €200 for a quality guesthouse or midrange hotel, while the city’s top digs usually start their rates at €200; at the other end of the scale, a hostel bed will cost anything from €18 to as much as €34. (Note that hostel rates don’t include breakfast; exceptions are noted.)

Grafton St & Around

You can’t get more central than the relatively small patch of real estate just south of the Liffey, which has a good mix of options ranging from backpacker hostels to the fanciest hotels. Bear in mind that the location comes with a price.

BUDGET

Abigail’s Hostel (Map; 677 9300; www.abigailshostel.com, 7-9 Aston Quay; dm/d from €12.50/38; ) The dorms at this relatively new hostel (converted from an unremarkable hotel) aren’t especially big – the eight-bed one is particularly cosy – but they’re modern, sunny and well-appointed with all-pine furniture. All rooms are have en suite bathrooms.

Barnacles Temple Bar House (Map; 671 6277; www.barnacles.ie; 19 Lower Temple Lane; dm/d from €15/32; ) Bright, spacious and set in the heart of Temple Bar, this hostel is immaculately clean, and has nicely laid-out dorms with private bathrooms and doubles with in-room storage and bathroom. Because of its location, rooms are quieter towards the back. Top facilities, a comfy lounge, and linen and towels are provided.

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TOP FIVE SLEEPS

Best B&B – Pembroke Townhouse Click here

Best boutique hotel – Number 31 (opposite)

Best budget sleep – Isaacs Hostel Click here

Best luxury hotel – Merrion Click here

Best view – Clarence Hotel Click here

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Avalon House (Map; 475 0001; www.avalon-house.ie; 55 Aungier St; dm/s/d €18/30/60; ) Before there was tourism, this hostel in a gorgeous Victorian building catered to the thin trickle of adventurers who landed in Dublin. They flood in these days – book ahead – but Avalon still takes good care of them, whether they’re young backpackers or families. The lounges are great for hanging out, the Bald Barista serves a sublime cappuccino and there’s free wi-fi.

Kinlay House (Map; 679 6644; www.kinlayhouse.ie; 2-12 Lord Edward St; dm/d from €19/34; ) A former boarding house for boys, this busy hostel has some massive, 24-bed mixed dorms, as well as smaller rooms. Not for the faint-hearted – the hostel has a reputation for being a bit of a party spot. There’s a nice TV lounge and a continental breakfast is included.

Ashfield House (Map; 679 7734; www.ashfieldhouse.ie; 19-20 D’Olier St; dm/s/d from €22/36/72; ) A stone’s throw from Temple Bar and O’Connell Bridge, this modern hostel in a converted church has a selection

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