Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [89]
Shelbourne (Map; 676 6471; www.theshelbourne.ie; 27 North St Stephen’s Green; r from €200; ) Dublin’s most iconic hotel has long been the best address in town – it was good enough for the framers of the Irish Constitution – but since a major refurbishment and its acquisition by the Marriott group there has been steady grumbling that the hotel is not quite at the top of its five-star game. It looks pretty impressive, especially the Lord Mayor’s Lounge, where afternoon tea is still one of the best experiences in town.
Westin Dublin (Map; 645 1000; www.westin.com; Westmoreland St; s/d €210/260; ) Formerly a grand branch of the Allied Irish Bank, this fine old building was gutted and reborn as a stylish upmarket hotel. The rooms, many of which overlook a beautiful atrium, are decorated in elegant mahogany and soft colours: you will sleep on 10 layers of the Westin’s own (trademarked) Heavenly Bed, which is damn comfortable indeed. The hotel’s most elegant room is the former banking hall, complete with gold leaf plasterwork on the ceiling, now used for banquets. Breakfast will set you back €27.
Clarence Hotel (Map; 407 0800; www.theclarence.ie; 6-8 Wellington Quay; r €390-440, ste €780-2800; ) Dublin’s coolest hotel is synonymous with its rock-star owners, Bono and the Edge, so it’s hardly surprising that they’re used to dealing with celebrity heavyweights. The 50-odd rooms aren’t short on contemporary style, but they lack that grandeur you would expect from a top hotel. The hotel was slated to get a megabucks makeover, but the economic downturn has put that on ice for the foreseeable future.
The Liberties & Kilmainham
There’s not that much on offer in this part of town, but the following exception is pretty convenient.
Jurys Inn Christchurch (Map; 454 0000; www.jurysinns.com; Christchurch Pl; r from €89; ) A chain hotel that’s so generic you may wake up not knowing if you’re in Detroit or Darmstadt, let alone Dublin, but it’s the perfect choice if you a) wish to remain anonymous, b) don’t want to be troubled by personal service, c) get a fantastic deal online or d) just want a place to sleep it off.
O’Connell Street & Around
There are a few elegant hotels around O’Connell St, but the real draw round these parts is just to the east on Gardiner St, Dublin’s B&B row. Caveat emptor: the further north you go along Gardiner St the dodgier the lodgings and the neighbourhood get, so we’ve kept our inclusions to the southern end of the street, below Mountjoy Sq.
BUDGET
Isaacs Hostel (Map; 855 6215; www.isaacs.ie; 2-5 Frenchman’s Lane; dm/d from €14/62; ) Located in a 200-year-old wine vault, this popular, grungy hostel with loads of character is the place to head if you want one of the cheapest beds in town – without sacrificing the basics of health and hygiene. The lounge area is where it all happens, from summer BBQs to live music, and the easygoing staff are on hand 24/7 for advice and help. Global nomads will feel right at home.
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HOME AWAY FROM HOME
Self-catering apartments are a good option for visitors staying a few days, for groups of friends, or families with kids. Apartments range from one-room studios to two-bedroom flats with lounge areas, and include bathrooms and kitchenettes. A decent two-bedroom apartment will cost about €100 to €150 per night. Good, central places include the following:
Clarion Stephen’s Hall (Map; 638 1111; www.premgroup.com; 14-17 Lower Leeson St) Deluxe studios and suites, with in-room safe, fax, modem facilities and CD player.
Home from Home Apartments (Map; 678 1100; www.yourhomefromhome.com; The Moorings, Fitzwilliam Quay) Deluxe one- to three-bedroom apartments