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Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [95]

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more adventurous: how about a Kiwiburger topped with beetroot, egg, pineapple, cheese, salad and relish? They also have decent veggie options.

Café Bardeli (Map; www.cafebardeli.ie; mains €9-13; 7am-11pm) Grafton St ( 672 7720; Bewley’s Bldg, Grafton St); South Great George’s St ( 677 1646; 12-13 South Great George’s St) With three branches in the city – including a spectacular one in Dublin’s most beloved cafe, Bewley’s of Grafton St – the folks behind Bardeli have hit the nail firmly on the head: great crispy pizzas with imaginative toppings such as spicy lamb and tzatziki, fresh homemade pastas, and salads such as broccoli, feta and chickpea that you’ll dream about for days. All in a buzzing atmosphere at prices that won’t break the bank. No reservations, so prepare to wait on a busy night. See also Click here.

Green Nineteen (Map; 478 9626; 19 Lower Camden St; mains €10-12; 10am-11pm Mon-Sat, noon-6pm Sun) The newest addition to Camden St’s growing corridor of cool is this sleek restaurant that specialises in locally sourced, organic grub – without the fancy price tag. Braised lamb chump, corned beef, pot-roast chicken and the ubiquitous burger are but the meaty part of the menu that also includes salads and veggie option. We love it.

Shebeen Chic (Map; 679 9667; 5 South Great George’s St; mains €10-15; noon-10pm Sun-Wed, to 11pm Thu-Sat) Cracked chandeliers, paintings hung at odd angles and ne’er a matching table-and-chair set create the suitably ramshackle tone for a restaurant whose name comes from the Irish word for ‘illegal drinking establishment’. The menu reads like it was written by Tom Waits: ‘spudballs with broccoli, mushrooms and auld cheddar’, or ‘leek, spud and maybe mud’ are representatives of a cuisine best described as ‘Irish with attitude’. In the basement is a bar with a speakeasy vibe.

Bistro (Map; 671 5430; 4-5 Castle Market; mains €10-19; noon-10pm) The real draw at this place in summer is its outdoor seating, set on a lively pedestrianised strip behind the George’s St Arcade. An excellent menu of fish, pasta and meat specials, a well-stocked wine cellar and efficient service make this the warm-weather choice for alfresco dining.

Yamamori (Map; 475 5001; 71 South Great George’s St; mains €10-28, lunch bento €9.95; 12.30pm-11pm) This popular Asian restaurant with long communal tables serves filling noodle- and rice-based staples, as well as sushi. The lunch bento is one of the best deals in town, and one of the most delicious to boot. Children are well catered for and service is smart.

Silk Road Café (Map; 407 0770; Chester Beatty Library, Dublin Castle; mains around €11; 11am-4pm Mon-Fri) Museum cafes don’t often make you salivate, but this vaguely Middle Eastern/North African/Mediterranean gem is the exception. The menu is about two-thirds veggie, with house specialities of Greek moussaka and spinach lasagne complementing the deep-fried chickpeas and hummus starters. For dessert, there’s Lebanese baklava and coconut kataïfi (angel-hair pastry), or you could opt for the juiciest dates this side of Tyre. All dishes are halal and kosher.

Wagamama (Map; 478 2152; South King St; mains €11-18; 11am-11pm) Production-line rice and noodle dishes served pronto at canteen-style tables mightn’t seem like the most inviting way to dine, but boy this food is good. The basement it’s served in is surprisingly light and airy – for a place with absolutely no natural light.

Chameleon (Map; 671 0362; 1 Lower Fownes St; mains €12-20; 6-11pm Tue-Sat, to 10pm Sun) Friendly, characterful and draped in exotic fabrics, Chameleon serves up oodles of noodles and Indonesian classics, including satay, gado gado (veggies with peanut sauce), nasi goreng and mee goreng (spicy fried noodles). If you can’t decide, try the rijsttafel – it’s a selection of several dishes with rice.

L’Gueuleton (Map; 675 3708; 1 Fade St; mains €12-25; noon-3pm & 6-11.30pm Mon-Sat) Dubliners have a devil of a time pronouncing the name (which means ‘the Gluttonous Feast’ in French) and have had their patience tested with the no-reservations, get-in-line-and-wait

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