Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [99]
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Winding Stair (Map; 873 7320; 40 Lower Ormond Quay; mains €22-27; noon-4pm & 6-10pm Tue-Sat, 1-10pm Sun) Housed within a beautiful Georgian building that was once home to the city’s most beloved bookshop (the ground floor still is one, Click here), the conversion to elegant restaurant has been faultless. The wonderful Irish menu – creamy fish pie, bacon and organic cabbage, steamed mussels, and Irish farmyard cheeses – coupled with an excellent wine list make for a memorable meal.
Chapter One (Map; 873 2266; www.chapteronerestaurant.com; 18 North Parnell Sq; mains €33-35; 12.30-2pm Tue-Fri, 6-11pm Tue-Sat) South-side snobs who think fine cuisine ends at the Liffey’s edge have never had the pleasure of savouring the classic French cuisine in the best restaurant north of the river, situated in the lovely vaulted basement of the Dublin Writers Museum. That’s probably because getting a table here can take months, which is what happens when Monsieur Michelin bestows one of his stars upon you. You’ll have to book in advance, but the three-course pre-theatre special (€37.50; served before 7pm) is excellent.
Docklands
Although the crash has put paid to some of the grander plans for restaurant openings in the Docklands, there are a couple of good options that reflect the best of new dining in the city.
MIDRANGE
Quay 16 (Map; 817 8760; www.mvcillairne.com; MV Cill Airne, North Wall Quay; bar food €12-16; mains €19.50-32; noon-3pm Mon-Fri, 6-10pm Mon-Sat) The MV Cill Airne, commissioned in 1961 as a passenger liner tender, is now permanently docked along the north quays, where it serves the public as a bar, bistro and fine restaurant. The food in the restaurant is surprisingly good – dishes like monkfish on saffron risotto and seared beef fillet are expertly done and served with an excellent choice of wines.
Ely Winebar (www.elywinebar.ie; mains €15-24; noon-3pm & 6-10pm Mon-Fri, 1-4pm & 6-10pm Sat); Ely CHQ (Map; 672 0010; Custom House Quay); Ely HQ (Map; 633 9986; Hanover Quay); Ely Place (Map; 676 8986; 22 Ely Pl) Scrummy homemade burgers, bangers and mash, and wild smoked-salmon salad are some of the meals you’ll find in this basement restaurant. Dishes are prepared with organic and free-range produce from the owner’s family farm in County Clare, so you can rest assured of the quality. There’s a large wine list to choose from, with over 70 sold by the glass. The original is in Ely Place, but we prefer the two newer branches on either side of the Liffey.
Beyond the Grand Canal
It’s hardly surprising that the chichi southern suburbs would have their fair share of decent eateries – it’s where the city’s privileged classes can turn their collars up and unwind after a hard day of making money. If you’re in Ranelagh or Ballsbridge, there’s always somewhere to get a decent bite.
Café Bardeli (Map; 496 1886; 62 Ranelagh Rd; mains €9-15; 12.30-11pm Mon-Sat, to 10pm Sun) If it ain’t broke, do it again: Café Bardeli hit Ranelagh in 2004 with the same no-fuss menu that made its big sister such a roaring success on South Great George’s St (Click here) and just hasn’t looked back.
Expresso Bar (Map; 660 0585; 1 St Mary’s Rd, Ballsbridge; mains €9-17; 7.30am-9.15pm Mon-Fri, 9am-9.15pm Sat & 10am-5pm Sun) Just across the street from the Dylan, this bright and cheery spot does a roaring trade for Sunday brunch – and you’ve a good chance to spot an Irish celeb or two. The eggs Benedict are excellent.
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DRINKING
Come hell or high water, Dubliners will always take a drink, and if you don’t join them for at least one you will never crack the social code that makes this city tick – and you’ll run the risk of being dismissed