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ATHENS

The Collected Traveler

MOROCCO

The Collected Traveler

NORTHERN SPAIN

The Collected Traveler

PARIS

The Collected Traveler

PROVENCE

The Collected Traveler

SOUTHWEST FRANCE

The Collected Traveler

TUSCANY AND UMBRIA

The Collected Traveler

VENICE

The Collected Traveler

Once again, to my mother, Phyllis,

who always believed my boxes of files

held something of value,

and to my father, Peter,

the most inspiring person in my life

CONTENTS

Introduction

TURKEY

The Byzantine Empire: Rome of the East, by Merle Severy

Turkish Delights, by Norman Kotker

The Golden Age of Ottoman Art, by Esin Atıl

The Turkish Rose, by Fergus Garrett

Million Must Quit Homes in Near East, Lausanne Decrees, by Edwin L. James

The Kebab Conflict, by Meline Toumani

Through the Back Door, by Christiane Bird

Recommended Reading

Interview: Tom Brosnahan

ISTANBUL

Istanbul, by Talât Sait Halman

The Passage of Flowers, by John Freely

Miniskirts Meet Minarets in the New Istanbul, by Annette Grossbongardt

Celebration Istanbul, by John Ash

The News in Istanbul, by Michael E. Stone

Recommended Reading

Interview: Gamze Artaman

PERSONALITIES Natives, Expatriates, and Passionate Visitors

Moving Freely, by Maureen Freely

Turkey’s Passionate Interpreter to the World, by Stephen Kinzer

In the Thick of Change Where Continents Meet, by Brian Lavery

Interview: John Freely

MONUMENTS

The Grand Seraglio, by Mary Cable

Istanbul’s Caravan Stops, by John K. McDonald

Edifice Complex, by Alan Richman

Byzantium Preserved, by Patrick Brogan

How to Explore Istanbul’s Great Mosques, by John K. McDonald

Bathed in Tradition, by Nancy Milford

Recommended Reading

THE TURKISH TABLE

Turkish Food in the Cycle of Time, by Ayla Algar

Istanbul’s Newest Tastemaker, by Gisela Williams

Interview: Engin Akin

Simply Sensational, by Berrin Torolsan

The Milky Way, by Berrin Torolsan

Albondigas, by Matthew Goodman

Eating in Istanbul, by Anya von Bremzen

Recommended Reading: Cookbooks

Interview: Eveline Zoutendijk

THE BOSPHORUS

Mansions on the Water: The Yalıs of Istanbul, by Chris Hellier

Recommended Reading

EDIRNE

Edirne’s Architectural Feast, by Godfrey Goodwin

BURSA

The Birthplace of Empire, by Heath W. Lowry

GALLIPOLI

Gallipoli: Landscape of Sacrifice, by Catharine Reynolds

Gallipoli, by John William Streets

Recommended Reading

A Turkish Miscellany

Acknowledgments

The rich colors of the spectrum of Ottoman art, evocative of both a heavenly and an earthly Paradise, help to convey artistic messages that, while reflecting the religious and cultural complexities and subtleties of Ottoman civilization, at the same time speak to all of us in a clear and understandable artistic voice. The concept of “otherness,” for all of the incredible suffering and destruction that it has caused when exploited in the political clashes of nations and cultures, is fortunately a very fragile one, whose hard and destructive edges erode very quickly once we familiarize ourselves with other cultures. The centuries-old artistic legacy of the Ottomans will always preserve the mystique of another time and another place, but their works of art still contain the power to move and fascinate us, whatever our culture, with the immediacy and freshness that enables all great art to overcome distance and years, cultures and beliefs. These artists and patrons were Ottomans of bygone ages, but they were also people just like us. What delighted, inspired, and moved them also delights, inspires, and moves us, putting interesting differences of time, space, culture, and language into their proper perspective against the enduring message of beautiful things.

—WALTER DENNY,

Iznik: The Artistry of Ottoman Ceramics

Istanbul may or may not be the world’s most magnificent city, but it is certainly the most magnificently situated.

—STEPHEN KINZER,

Crescent & Star: Turkey

Between Two Worlds

It would be a dull visitor indeed who could not find,