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and onions for a few hours, then it is sliced thinly, and wrapped around a vertical spit and placed in front of a three-tiered broiler. As the spit revolves slowly, the outside layer of the lamb cooks. From this revolving action the dish takes it name doner, which means “to turn” in Turkish. Şiş kebap is another way of cooking meat. Şiş means “skewer” in Turkish. In Nomadic times the meat was cooked slowly over the campfires along with onions, peppers and herbs. It should be noted that the unique taste of kebaps is due more to the breeds of sheep and cattle which are raised in open pastures, than to their special marinades and the way of cooking.

Kilims and Carpets

Many visitors to Istanbul don’t want to leave without a kilim, which is a flatwoven textile in Turkey (known as palas in the Caucasus, gelim in Iran, and kelim in Afghanistan) or a carpet, and I don’t blame them—Istanbul’s reputation as a carpet center is justified. The problem for tourists is that you will be bombarded with so many styles, colors, and kinds of weavings that it’s difficult to make an informed decision. But it’s not impossible, as my friend and dealer, Ömer Eymen (see Arasta Bazaar, page 493) helped me to understand. As Ömer recommended to me, I suggest that you make a visit early on in your trip to the Turkish and Islamic Arts Museum (even if you have no intention of buying a rug).

Reputable dealers will take the time to explain some important features about their kilims and rugs to you. Pay attention—take notes if you want—and if at any point you feel you are being pressured, walk out. There are plenty of quality rug dealers in Istanbul, so there is no need to rush into buying anything.

Kilims are generally less expensive than rugs, and many people prefer their brighter palette and more modern designs. Kilims were traditionally used as floor coverings, door and window curtains, prayer rugs, and sometimes eating cloths. “They were also made,” according to the author team of Kilim: The Complete Guide, “into every size of bag for storage and transportation, as well as serving as trappings to decorate the animals. Aside from domestic use, the flatweaves were made for donation to the mosque, and more recently for trade.” They were used also as seat and banquette coverings, and larger ones were woven as walls for tents. Still more were used as mosque hangings—to separate the men from the women—and on the floor for praying.

Some characteristics that affect the price of both kilims and rugs are whether chemical or vegetable dyes were used (most of the time, chemical dyes are cheaper); age (most of the time, an older weaving will hold more value); and whether the weaving was made for a girl’s dowry or for money (usually, if a weaving is made just for money it is inferior to one made for a dowry). In recent years, some disreputable dealers have been selling Chinese knockoffs, sometimes featuring traditional Anatolian designs, and not revealing this to the buyer (and the buyer is usually not educated enough about weavings to ask). Chinese copies are always cheaper, so always inquire about a rug’s origins. This is not to say there aren’t quality weavings made in China, but if the price is too cheap, there’s a reason. It’s best to do a good deal of looking first before you buy anything, and if you’re buying an older piece that needs repairs, ask that they be included in the price, which should not be a problem. Remember that handmade weavings aren’t perfect, and imperfections are part of their charm.

Happily, there are some good references to peruse before you arrive in Istanbul, and remember to measure floor or wall space or table size (to cover with camel bags or cradles) in advance if you’re serious about making a purchase:

The Classical Tradition in Anatolian Carpets, by Walter B. Denny, with contributions by Sumru Belger Krody (Scala in association with the Textile Museum, 2002). Accompanying an exhibit of the same name, this 128-page paperback is a great volume for readers who want to learn more about Anatolian weavings but don’t want to