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Istanbul_ The Collected Traveler_ An Inspired Companion Guide - Barrie Kerper [85]

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possible, some of them like to spend a whole day in Topkapı Palace, some would like to shop till they drop! So I think a good private tour guide should first of all be able to understand in the shortest time possible what kind of tourists he or she is with, especially if he or she is with them for only one day. Some very knowledgeable guides are those that just lecture and walk and follow a set itinerary planned in advance. Instead, I prefer to get to know my clients as much as possible in advance of their arrival—that is, if they are referred directly to me. If they are referred to me through Travelium, one of the leading travel agencies in Istanbul that I’ve been working for since 1994, we do the classical tour (Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia, Topkapı, Grand Bazaar) on our first day. In this way, I am best able to learn how busy they want to be when they get here and also learn of some of their particular likes and dislikes. Most of the time, I’m right when it comes to guessing what people will like. I believe that private guiding, especially in a city like Istanbul, is not just informing my guests about the history of buildings but also satisfying all kinds of requests and needs, from finding the right battery charger to taking them to a place where we can find the right size Halloween costume for their grandkids. My other priority is that I like to make sure my clients enjoy their time in my country, so I help them to appreciate the Turkish approach to life and grasp details of our honorable past. And I like to do this in an enjoyable way. After all, visitors are supposed to be on vacation, not taking history or architecture classes, so ever since I started doing this job, I have been making some jokes. They must be really good jokes because, after all these years, new clients still find them funny!

Q: I’ve read that, on average, the maximum number of days tourists spend in Istanbul is three days. What would you consider to be an ideal three-day itinerary?

A: I can easily fill seven days, nine to five, and every day will be completely different. It’s not difficult to fill the time in Istanbul! But here’s what I suggest: first day would include Hippodrome, the Blue Mosque, the Cistern, Turkish and Islamic Art Museum, lunch, Hagia Sophia, the Spice Market, Rüstem Paşa Mosque. Second day: Topkapı Palace, the Archeological Museum, lunch, the Grand Bazaar. Third Day: Bosphorus boat ride, lunch, either the Mosque of Süleyman the Magnificent and the Chora Church or Taksim Square, İstiklâl Caddesi, and Galata Tower.

Q: How about day trips outside of Istanbul?

A: Normally, I would say, Stay in Istanbul, don’t go anywhere else, there’s so much to see and do here! But I do recommend the Princes’ Islands (in the summer), and year round, Edirne is very worthwhile. If you’re on your way south, the Gallipoli battlefields are exceptionally interesting. Gallipoli is approximately a five-hour drive from Istanbul, which is why it makes sense as a destination if you’re headed to Ephesus or the coastal resort towns. A visit can be made from Istanbul in a (very long) day, but it’s really better to spend the night in Eceabat or Çanakkale and return to Istanbul the next day. Bursa is also great, but if you’re going just for the day it is essential to take the catamaran across the Sea of Marmara instead of the regular ferry boat, which is significantly longer.

Q: Where are most of your clients from?

A: Most are North American, many from New York and California especially. What I like about American travelers in particular is that they have a curiosity and an open mind. They might not know much about Turkey when they come here, but at least they don’t show up with a negative view. I work with other nationalities too, and many of them, especially Europeans, already have an opinion of Turkey and it isn’t a positive one. They find fault with everything. North Americans are here to really enjoy themselves and to enjoy Turkey—they are a pleasure to work with! Something I have gained in my job is an outsider view of my own country, to look at things

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