Italian Grill - Mario Batali [10]
FENNEL POLLEN Fennel pollen tastes like fennel seeds, only more so. It’s a “secret ingredient” in Tuscan cooking, where it is used for cured meats and to season fish, chicken, and, especially, pork. Fennel pollen is harvested from wild fennel plants just as they begin to bloom, and it will transform almost anything you sprinkle it over. It’s available in some specialty markets and can be ordered online (see Sources, page 232).
FREGOLA Fregola, also spelled fregula, is a Sardinian pasta made from durum semolina. It was traditionally formed into tiny balls by hand, then dried and toasted; today it is also commercially produced. Fregola is sometimes referred to as Sardinian couscous, but it’s more flavorful and is slightly chewy. There’s also a larger version, called fregolone. Fregola is available at some Italian markets and can be ordered online (see Sources, page 232).
GORGONZOLA This famous Italian blue cheese, named for the small town in Lombardy where it originated, is made from cow’s milk that is inoculated with the Penicillium gorgonzola mold to produce the characteristic blue-green striations. Originally the mold was produced naturally by aging the cheese in damp caves where the mold grew, but today the cheese is injected with the mold and then aged for three to six months. Gorgonzola cheese is sometimes referred to as erborinato, “herbed” in Lombard dialect, because of its greenish striations. There are two types of Gorgonzola: dolce (meaning “sweet”) is creamy and mild; naturale is aged longer, is firmer, and has a more pungent bite.
INSTANT YEAST Also called rapid-rise yeast, instant yeast is a quick-rising type of active dry yeast. It cuts rising times considerably, and it also has the advantage of not needing to be “proofed,” or dissolved in liquid—it can simply be added to the other dry ingredients in the recipe. It is sold in foil-lined ¼-ounce envelopes, three to a pack, and can be found in the baking aisle of the supermarket.
JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES Also called sunchokes, Jerusalem artichokes are small pale brown tubers with sweet, slightly nutty-tasting flesh. Despite their name, they have nothing to do with either globe artichokes or Jersusalem. In fact, they are related to the sunflower, and it’s likely that their name comes from girasole, the Italian word for that flower—despite the fact that they are actually a North American native. Look for Jerusalem artichokes at farmers’ markets and specialty produce markets. Their season runs from fall into spring, although you may find them at other times of the year. Some varieties are very knobby, others are smooth—the smooth ones are easier to clean. They can be eaten raw or cooked, and it is not necessary to peel their thin skins (though you may choose to do so)—just scrub them well.
MALDON SALT Harvested along England’s Atlantic coast, Maldon salt is a high-quality sea salt with a delicate briny taste. Look for it in gourmet markets or order it online (see Sources, page 232). I use it to finish the scallops on page 106 and other seafood dishes.
MICROPLANE GRATER The Microplane is a rasp grater that has made the task of zesting citrus fruit immeasurably less tedious. There are now many different versions of the original Microplane (and other brands as well); the basic cheese grater/zester is versatile enough for most jobs. At Babbo, we also use a Microplane to shave bottarga over a dish. Less clunky than a box grater and decidedly sexier, the rasp gives you more control in finishing a dish with Parmigiano or another cheese.
MOSTARDA Mostarda di Cremona, also called mostarda di frutta, is a condiment made of fruits preserved in a thick sweet syrup that is seasoned aggressively with ground mustard seed and other spices. It is a classic accompaniment to boiled meats in Lombardy and other parts of northern