Italian Grill - Mario Batali [12]
PARMIGIANO-REGGIANO Parmigiano-Reggiano is the undisputed king of cheeses, and its production is strictly regulated under DOC laws. In order to be considered true Parmigiano, the cheese must have been made entirely in a restricted area that includes the provinces of Parma, Modena, and Reggio-Emilia and parts of Bologna and Mantova. And the cheese is produced only from April to early November. The rind of true Parmigiano is always imprinted all over with the term “Parmigiano-Reggiano,” verifying its authenticity. There are just six hundred or so dairies authorized to make it, following the traditional method: Two milkings from the dairy’s cows (and/or those from nearby farms) are used for each batch, and it requires about 160 gallons of milk for each huge wheel of cheese; the average weight of a wheel of Parmigiano is 80 pounds. The milk from the evening milking is left to stand overnight before it is turned into curds; the morning milk is allowed to sit only briefly before it is turned into curds, and then the two are combined. The milk used for the cheese is partially skimmed, as much of the cream is removed (and used for butter or another dairy product) before it is heated, fermented with some of the whey saved from the previous batch, and coagulated. The curd is then cut into tiny pieces and heated before it is finally wrapped in cloth and placed in large wooden molds. The cheese is left in the molds for several days, then it is soaked in a salty brine for about three weeks. Finally, it is aged for at least a year and for up to three or even four years before it is marketed.
Some Parmigiano enthusiasts claim to prefer cheeses made in the late spring and summer months, when the animals’ feed is fresh grass and wheat. I like all of them, but I do prefer a younger cheese for eating unadorned or with balsamic vinegar and an older cheese for grating over my pasta and risotto.
PEPERONCINI Hot peppers are used mostly in southern Italy. The type varies from town to town, but the word peperoncini generally refers to the same crushed red chili flakes we find at the pizzeria. Most of us know our own preference for heat levels—I like a lot. I also like to use fresh chili peppers, especially the Mexican varieties like jalapeños, serranos, and sometimes even superhot habaneros, in many Italian dishes.
PIMENTÓN Pimentón is smoked Spanish paprika, and it’s incredibly aromatic. The best comes from La Vera in Extramadura, and pimentón de la Vera is labeled denominación de origen (DO), signaling its unique status. There are three types of pimentón: picante (hot), dulce (sweet), and agridulce (bittersweet). Pimentón is available in many gourmet shops, or order it online (see Sources, page 232); La Chinata is one of the best brands.
PINE NUTS Pine nuts are the seeds from the pinecones of a stone pine, Pinus pinea. The best are the longer oval-shaped ones from the Mediterranean; try to get these rather than the more triangular-shaped variety from Asia. Because of their high oil content, pine nuts can turn rancid quickly. Store them in the freezer, and always taste one before adding the nuts to a dish.
POLENTA Polenta is the Italian version of corn-meal mush. It varies from region to region, in the way that the cornmeal is ground (coarse or fine), the way it is cooked, and the way it is served (soft and warm or cooled and set). Although I sometimes prefer the longer-cooking variety because its depth of rich corn flavor is unsurpassed, a good instant variety can be perfectly acceptable. Despite the “instant” on the package label, instant polenta is nothing like instant oatmeal or Minute rice. It’s a pure product that contains nothing other than precooked cornmeal, and it can be very tasty indeed. And now that most brands seal the polenta in shrink-wrapped packaging, freshness (or lack of it) is no longer the issue it once was. Look for instant polenta in specialty markets and good supermarkets, or order it online (see Sources, page 232).