Italian Grill - Mario Batali [29]
Thinking globally while buying locally is especially important when you are buying fish. Some “trendy” fish have been overharvested to the point of extinction, and we now know that there can be problems with farmed fish as well, like salmon. The Monterey Bay Aquarium, at www.monterybayaquarium.com, maintains an up-to-date list of species that are being overfished in the United States and in the rest of the world. It’s an invaluable resource, and I urge you to consult it when writing your shopping list, as I do both at home and at the restaurants.
CALAMARI
SPIEDINI IN LEMON LEAVES
SERVES 6
2 pounds cleaned calamari (bodies and tentacles)
½ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for serving
2 scallions, thinly sliced
3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
1 tablespoon chopped fresh marjoram
2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper
4 lemons, preferably Meyer lemons
36 whole lemon leaves or fresh Kaffir lime leaves or 18 fresh bay leaves, cut lengthwise in half
Kosher salt
Coarse sea salt
CUT THE CALAMARI BODIES crosswise in half if large. Split the groups of tentacles into 2 pieces each.
In a medium bowl, combine the olive oil, scallions, garlic, marjoram, and pepper, mixing well. Add the calamari and stir to coat. Cover and marinate in the refrigerator for 1 hour.
Cut 3 of the lemons into thin slices; you will need 36 slices. Cut the remaining lemon into wedges. Set aside.
If using wooden skewers, soak them in water for at least 30 minutes. Preheat a gas grill or prepare a fire in a charcoal grill.
Meanwhile, transfer the calamari to a plate; reserve the marinade. Assemble 12 spiedini, using both bodies and tentacles on each one and alternating the calamari with 3 lemon leaves and 3 lemon slices per skewer. Season aggressively with kosher salt and place on a rimmed platter. Pour the marinade over and place in the refrigerator for 10 minutes.
Place the skewers on the hottest part of the grill and cook, unmoved, for 6 minutes. Using tongs, gently turn them over and cook for 4 to 6 minutes more, or until the edges of the calamari are crisp and golden brown.
Serve on the skewers, with olive oil for drizzling, coarse sea salt, and the lemon wedges.
I originally had these spiedini in Positano, where they were made with scallops and big shrimp. The flavor the lemon leaves impart is incredible, an intensely fragrant burnt sweetness, with almost a campfire aroma. If you don’t have a lemon tree in your backyard, unsprayed lemon leaves are sometimes available from florists; if you can’t find unsprayed leaves, you can substitute fresh bay leaves or Kaffir lime leaves (see Sources, page 232; there are about 20 lime leaves in a 15-gram package).
MARINATED CALAMARI
WITH CHICKPEAS, OLIVE PESTO, AND ORANGES
SERVES 6
CALAMARI
3 pounds cleaned calamari (tubes and tentacles)
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
Grated zest and juice of 1 lemon
4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint
2 tablespoons hot red pepper flakes
2 tablespoons freshly ground black pepper
CHICKPEAS
Two 15-ounce cans chickpeas, drained and rinsed, or 3½ cups cooked chickpeas
½ cup extra-virgin olive oil
¼ cup red wine vinegar
4 scallions, thinly sliced
4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
¼ cup mustard seeds
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
OLIVE PESTO
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
Grated zest and juice of 1 orange
½ cup black olive paste
4 jalapeños, finely chopped
12 fresh basil leaves, cut into chiffonade (thin slivers)
3 oranges
2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint
CUT THE CALAMARI BODIES crosswise