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By Root 186 0

—then the mussels will sizzle and jump and practically explode. (Even without the bread crumb mix, mussels cooked on the piastra are so good—toss them with the citrus and chili pepper before cooking, or just finish them with fresh lemon juice.) But if the grill and piastra are not superhot, the mussels will just steam in their own juices, and the result will not be nearly as good. Tossed with the mussels as they cook, the prosciutto bread crumbs become an interesting sticky mess that is simply delicious. Some of the crumbs will scorch and torch—and that’s good.

CLAMS

IN CARTOCCIO

SERVES 6

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

4 ounces pancetta, cut into ⅛-inch dice (ask the butcher to slice the pancetta ⅛ inch thick when you buy it)

2 red bell peppers, cored, seeded, and cut into ¼-inch dice

6 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

2 to 3 teaspoons hot red pepper flakes 1 cup dry white wine

½ cup finely chopped fresh Italian parsley

3 pounds New Zealand cockles or small clams, such as Manilas, scrubbed

12 ripe Sungold or cherry tomatoes, halved

PREHEAT A GAS GRILL or prepare a fire in a charcoal grill.

In a 10- to 12-inch sauté pan, combine the oil and pancetta and cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the pancetta is starting to brown, 4 to 5 minutes. Add the bell peppers, garlic, and pepper flakes and cook, stirring occasionally, just until the peppers are beginning to soften, about 3 minutes. Add the wine and bring to a boil. Stir in the parsley, remove from the heat, and set aside to cool completely.

Cut six 12-inch squares of heavy-duty foil. Lay out the squares on a large work surface and fold up the edges of each one to form a shallow bowl. Divide the clams among them, then divide the pancetta mixture, with its liquid, among them. Scatter 4 tomato halves over each pile. Bring the four corners of each foil packet up over the clams like a hobo sack and twist the top together securely, crimping the edges to create a tight seal.

Place the packs on the hottest part of the grill and wait until you can hear the juices bubbling, about 2 to 3 minutes, then let cook for 4 minutes longer. Transfer the packets to a large platter and serve, warning your guests of the piscatorial facial that awaits them.

Cooking shellfish in cartoccio is one of the easiest ways to prepare it, and one of the most fun, and it’s virtually bulletproof as well. Even if they overcook slightly, their steamy environment will keep them moist—and if you have to hold them for a few minutes before serving, they will stay hot and won’t dry out.

SHRIMP ROSEMARY

SPIEDINI ALLA ROMAGNOLA

SERVES 6

1 bunch Italian parsley, leaves only (about 2 cups loosely packed)

1 bunch basil, leaves only (about 2 cups packed)

2 cups fresh bread crumbs

½ teaspoon kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper to taste

¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 pounds large shrimp (21–30 per pound), peeled and deveined

12 large rosemary sprigs, prepared as skewers (see Note) and soaked in water for at least 2 hours, or overnight

2 lemons, cut into wedges

TOSS THE PARSLEY AND BASIL LEAVES into a food processor, add the bread crumbs, salt, pepper, and ¼ cup of the olive oil, and zap until the herbs are chopped and the bread crumbs look green. Transfer to a pie plate or wide shallow bowl, add the shrimp, and toss to coat well.

Skewer 4 or 5 shrimp on each rosemary sprig (the easiest way to do this is line up 4 or 5 shrimp at a time on a work surface and run a skewer through them; then separate them slightly so they will cook evenly). Dredge on both sides in the bread crumb mixure, place on a platter, and put in the refrigerator for 30 minutes.

Preheat a gas grill or prepare a fire in a charcoal grill. Put a piastra (see page 9) on the grill to preheat.

Spritz or brush the piastra with the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil. Place the skewers on the piastra and cook, turning once, just until the shrimp are opaque throughout and some of the crumbs are browned, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Transfer to a serving