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surface, with a short end toward you. Layer one-sixth of the potato slices and onion rings on the bottom half of each sheet of foil, leaving an inch or so of space all around. Brush the tops and sides of the vegetables with olive oil, using 1 tablespoon for each packet, and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Dot the top of each pile of potatoes with 1 tablespoon of the butter and sprinkle with 1 tablespoon of the brown sugar. Fold the foil over the squash, fold over about ¼ inch of the sides and bottoms of the foil to seal the edges, then fold over again to make a tight seal.

Place the packets on the hottest part of the grill and cook for 15 minutes. Transfer to a large platter or baking sheet and let stand for 10 minutes.

Serve in the foil, warning your guests about the hot, fragrant steam that will arise when they cut into the packets. Be sure to spoon some of the syrupy juices over the sweet potatoes.

The brown sugar and butter are here, but slicing sweet potatoes and cooking them in cartoccio with onions and olive oil gives them a whole new lease on life. Serve these with the Spit-Roasted Prime Rib (page 196) or Spit-Roasted Turkey Breast Porchetta-Style (page 156).

WAXY POTATOES

IN CHIANTI VINEGAR

SERVES 6

2 pounds small waxy potatoes, such as Yukon Gold or Ruby Crescent

¾ cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon celery seeds

6 scallions, thinly sliced

2 tablespoons Dijon mustard

¼ cup Chianti vinegar or other good red wine vinegar

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

IF USING WOODEN SKEWERS, soak them in water for at least 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the potatoes, bring back to a boil, and cook for 6 minutes. Drain and let cool slightly.

While the potatoes cook, preheat a gas grill or prepare a fire in a charcoal grill.

Cut the potatoes into 3 or 4 slices each. Combine ¼ cup of the olive oil, the celery seeds, and one-third of the scallions in a large bowl. Toss in the potatoes and turn or stir gently to coat.

Thread the potatoes onto 12 skewers (the easiest way to do this is line up 5 or so potato slices at a time, cut side down, on a work surface, then run a skewer through them). Place on the grill and cook, turning occasionally, until the potatoes are lightly browned and tender, about 15 minutes. Transfer to a platter.

In a large bowl, whisk together the mustard, vinegar, the remaining ½ cup olive oil, the remaining scallions, and salt and pepper to taste. Slide the potatoes off the skewers into the mustard mixture and toss to coat. Serve immediately.

Skewering blanched little potatoes and grilling them until tender gives them a nice smoky undertone. Get a good red wine vinegar for the dressing, which is made creamy with lots of Dijon mustard.

SOURCES

ARMANDINO’S SALUMI

309 Third Avenue South

Seattle, WA 98104

206–621–8772

www.salumicuredmeats.com

Cured meats made by my dad

ARTHUR AVENUE CATERERS

2344 Arthur Avenue

Bronx, NY 10458

866–2-SALAMI (272–5264)

718–295–5033

www.arthuravenue.com

Cured meats, specialty items, and cheeses

BIANCARDI MEATS

2350 Arthur Avenue

Bronx, NY 10458

718–733–4058

Fresh meat, game, and house-cured meats

CITARELLA

2135 Broadway

New York, NY 10023

212–874–0383

www.citarella.com

Fish and shellfish of all types

D’ARTAGNAN

280 Wilson Avenue

Newark, NJ 07105

800–327–8246

www.dartagnan.com

Fresh meat, game, and poultry

DEAN & DELUCA

560 Broadway

New York, NY 10021

800–2221–7714; 212–226–6800

www.deandeluca.com

Cured meats, cheese, olive oil, vinegar, and specialty produce

DIPALO

200 Grand Street

New York, NY 10013

212–226–1033

Italian cheese (including eighty-five types of pecorino), cured meats, olives, olive oil, vinegar, and pasta

FAICCO’S

260 Bleecker Street

New York, NY 10014

212–243–1974

Cured meats, pasta, oil, and vinegar

FORMAGGIO KITCHEN

244 Huron Avenue

Cambridge, MA 02138

888–212–3224; 617–354–4750

www.formaggiokitchen.com

Cheese, olive oil, vinegar, pasta, and other specialty foods

GRATEFUL PALATE

888–472–5283

www.gratefulpalate.com