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1/2 can of tuna, drained

Chopped parsley

Soak the mushrooms in water for 2 hours. Sauté the garlic in olive oil for a few minutes. Add the tomatoes and simmer until thick. Add the mushrooms and basil, season to taste with salt and pepper, and add the tuna. Cook for 10 minutes. Serve over spaghetti or other pasta, and top with more pepper and chopped parsley.

SCALLOPED TUNAFISH

11/2 cups cracker crumbs

1 cup celery, chopped fine

1 cup onion, chopped fine

2 cloves garlic, chopped fine

1 green pepper, chopped fine

1/2 cup parsley, chopped

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

11/2 cups tuna bits

1/2 cup butter

2 eggs, lightly beaten

Use rather coarse cracker crumbs. Combine them with the chopped vegetables, seasonings, and tuna. Add the butter and eggs. Blend well and pour into a buttered casserole. Dot the top with butter and bake at 375° for 25 or 30 minutes.

TUNAFISH OMELET

Use 1/2 cup of flaked tuna for each omelet. Heat the fish in a little olive oil or butter, and season with onion juice and freshly ground black pepper. Make omelets according to your usual method and fold the hot tunafish into them. Garnish with chopped parsley, or parsley and chives mixed.

SALADE NIÇOISE

This will make a salad for 3 or 4 people or a first course for 6 people.

Arrange greens on a large platter. Open 2 cans of solid pack tunafish and place it in the center of the platter. Around the edge arrange fillets of anchovies (about 3 2-ounce cans), 6 small or 3 large tomatoes cut in wedges, onion rings, 6 hard-cooked eggs quartered, and strips of green pepper and pimiento. Garnish with chopped parsley and ripe olives and serve with sauce vinaigrette (page 36) or sauce gribiche (pages 36–37).

VARIATION

Sometimes sliced cooked potatoes and cooked green beans are added.

TUNA SALAD SUPREME

This will make a salad for 6 people.

Grate 2 heads of raw celery root. Add 2 7-ounce cans tunafish, 2 chopped hard-cooked eggs, 6 chopped green onions, and blend with a vinaigrette sauce (page 36) to which you have added 1 tablespoon prepared mustard, 1 teaspoon chopped parsley, and 1 teaspoon tarragon. Serve on endive spears or chicory. Garnish with ripe olives and pimiento strips.

OLD-FASHIONED TUNA SALAD

Combine 11/2 cups tuna bits with 1/2 cup finely chopped celery, 8 chopped green onions, 2 tablespoons capers, and enough mayonnaise to bind the salad. Serve in a nest of romaine or lettuce. Garnish with mayonnaise, ripe olives, tomato wedges, and sliced hard-cooked eggs.

TUNA SALAD BUFFET PLATE

Make a good French potato salad: Pour white wine and olive oil over hot sliced potatoes; add slivered almonds, chopped chives, onions, and parsley; add a dash of vinegar and chill it well.

Make a Russian salad with finely cut cooked vegetables: peas, carrots, string beans, and potatoes bound together with mayonnaise.

Arrange greens on a long platter. In the center place a smoked whitefish, the tuna from 3 large cans, skinless and boneless sardines from 3 cans. Spoon the French potato salad and the Russian salad around the fish. Garnish with paper-thin slices of onion, quartered hard-cooked eggs, and wedges of tomato. Serve with a bowl of mayonnaise and a dish of fresh horseradish mixed with sour cream and dill.

Hard Swedish bread and a bottle of chilled white wine will make this a summer buffet of exceptional flavors.

Whitebait

These minnowlike fish are much discussed. Some experts say they are a mixture of various infant fish, while others claim they are a definite species. Who knows, who cares, and what can we do about it? They are wonderful eating.

When you sample whitebait for the first time, you may find it disconcerting to have a whole plateful of eyes staring up at you. I did. This initial reaction soon passes, and they become one of your favorite delicacies. They are often served with tiny oyster crabs, and when offered in this fashion at a smart restaurant they are definitely on the expensive side.

SAUTÉED WHITEBAIT

Use 1 to 11/2 pounds of whitebait