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James Beard's New Fish Cookery - James Beard [114]

By Root 1098 0
from your guests. For 6 people:


1/2 pound mushrooms, finely chopped

4 tablespoons butter

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

3 tablespoons flour

4 tablespoons heavy cream

6 crêpes, made without sugar

6 trout, sauté meunière (page 10)

Browned butter

Lemon juice


Sauté the mushrooms in the butter until they are soft and well cooked. Sprinkle with the salt, pepper, and flour. Add the cream and stir until the mixture is thick.

Prepare the crêpes without sugar according to the recipe on page 190. They should be about 6 inches in diameter, well browned, thin and tender.

Sauté the trout meunière according to the directions on page 10. Spread each pancake with the mushroom mixture, place a trout on top of this, and roll up the pancake so that the head sticks out one end and the tail the other. Arrange these rolls in a baking dish — an oval one is perfect. Cover with a little browned butter and lemon juice. Heat for just a moment or two in the oven and serve. Delicious with a good green salad and a brittle white wine.


TROUT À L’ANGLAISE


12 trout

4 tablespoons butter

3 tablespoons olive oil

Flour

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

2 eggs, lightly beaten

2 cups crumbs, crushed


Clean and wash the trout. Heat the butter and olive oil in a large skillet. Dust the trout with flour, sprinkle with salt and pepper, dip in the egg, and then in the crumbs. Sauté quickly in the hot fat according to the Canadian cooking theory (page 10). Remove to a hot platter and serve with a tartar sauce (pages 35–36), sauce diable (page 29), or rémoulade (page 35). Boiled potatoes and peas seem to be a good but rather homely accompaniment.


VARIATION

French-Fried Trout. Prepare the fish as above, but fry it according to the Canadian cooking theory (page 11). Serve with tartar sauce (pages 35–36) or rémoulade (page 35).

CHARCOAL-BROILED TROUT


I have had all sorts of trout broiled over coals: wrapped in wet newspapers; wrapped in clay (and they were not too bad this way); and held over the coals after being impaled on a stick — which works very well if you do it right.

I really feel, however, that there are only two ways of doing the job and doing it well.

I. Clean the trout, dip them in flour, and then in melted butter. Salt and pepper them and arrange securely in a wire grill. Grill over hot coals according to the Canadian cooking theory (page 9). Brush with butter during the cooking (a good-sized pastry brush or a small paintbrush is excellent for doing this). The trout should have a nice crispy coating — be careful not to overcook them. Serve with potatoes sautéeed over or baked under the fire and cole slaw.

II. Arrange the trout in an S-shape on long skewers, or make rings of the fish by running the skewers through the head and tail. Dip these in flour, then in melted butter, and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Broil them over the coals as above, brushing with butter during the process. Serve with lemon or lime wedges and melted butter or with a Hollandaise sauce (pages 25–26).


TROUT EN PAPILLOTES


For 6 people:


6 trout

Butter

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Oil


FILLING


2 carrots, finely chopped

2 small white onions, finely chopped

2 shallots or green onions, finely chopped

2 stalks celery, finely chopped

4 to 6 tablespoons butter

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper


Prepare the filling by sautéing the vegetables in the butter until soft. Salt and pepper to taste.

Split and clean the trout and stuff each one with a little of the mixture. Dot with butter, and place about 3 inches from the broiler flame. Broil for 6 minutes. Salt and pepper the fish when you remove them.

Have ready 6 heart-shaped pieces of cooking parchment large enough for the trout. Place a fish on each piece of parchment, near one edge. Fold the rest of the paper over the fish and crimp the edges together so that the fish is sealed in. Oil the paper. Place these on a buttered baking sheet and bake at 425° according to the Canadian cooking theory (page 8), adding an additional five minutes for the paper.


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