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6 cloves garlic, very finely chopped

1/2 cup olive oil

1 32-oz. can Italian plum tomatoes

11/2 teaspoons salt

3 tablespoons chopped fresh basil or 11/2 teaspoons dried basil

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

3 heaping tablespoons tomato paste

1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley

Sauté the onions and garlic in the oil over medium-high heat. Add the tomatoes and seasonings, bring to the boil, reduce heat, and cook slowly for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. Correct seasonings. Add the tomato paste and simmer for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. Finally, add the parsley and stir together.

BROWNED BUTTER (BEURRE NOISETTE)

This is really browned butter. Heat the butter in a small skillet or pipkin, turning the pan from side to side, until it is a delicate brown but not burned.

BEURRE MAITRE D’HOTEL

Beurre noisette (browned butter) with lemon juice to taste.

BLACK BUTTER (BEURRE NOIR)

Heat 6 tablespoons of butter until well browned. Add lemon juice or wine vinegar to taste and blend well.

LEMON BUTTER

Heat the amount of butter needed and add lemon juice to taste.

VARIATION

Lime Butter. Substitute lime juice for lemon juice.

LOBSTER BUTTER

Grind or pound cooked lobster shells until very fine. Combine with the quantity of butter needed for the recipe and force through a fine strainer. To each 1/4 pound of butter add the shells from a 1-pound lobster.

ANCHOVY BUTTER

Cream 1/2 cup butter until it is light. Fold in 6 anchovy fillets, finely chopped, or use anchovy paste to taste. Add a few drops of lemon juice and 1 teaspoon chopped parsley.

VARIATION

You may melt the butter and stir in the anchovy paste. Season with a few drops of lemon juice.

CAVIAR BUTTER

Cream 6 tablespoons of butter until light and add 1 tablespoon of caviar (more or less, according to your taste). Season with a few drops of lemon juice.

HERB BUTTER

Cream 1/4 pound of butter and blend in 1 tablespoon each of finely chopped parsley, chives, chervil and tarragon. If you use the dried tarragon and chervil, use 1 teaspoon each.

VARIATION

Tarragon-Chive Butter. Cream butter and add chopped chives and tarragon to taste.

Parsley Butter. Cream butter and add chopped parsley to taste.

SAUCE AÏOLI

This sauce is a regular Friday dish for many people living in the South of France. It was formerly made by pounding the garlic in a mortar, but you can make it much more easily with a blender or food processor.

12 cloves garlic

3 cups olive oil, plus 3 tablespoons

4 egg yolks

Salt

Lemon juice

To prepare in a blender, blend the garlic in the container with 1 egg yolk and 3 tablespoons olive oil. Combine this paste with a very heavy mayonnaise, made with 3 egg yolks and 3 cups olive oil, depending on the size of the eggs. Season with the salt and lemon juice to taste.

To prepare in a food processor, combine 6 to 8 cloves garlic, 1 whole egg, 2 tablespoons lemon juice, salt, and freshly ground black pepper in the beaker. With the metal chopping blade in place, process, gradually adding 11/2 cups olive oil.

To prepare in a mortar, pound the garlic in the mortar; gradually add the egg yolks and finally pound in the olive oil, a tablespoon at a time (approximately 31/2 cups), until the consistency of a thick mayonnaise is reached. Season with salt and lemon juice to taste.

SAUCE MAYONNAISE

2 egg yolks

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon dry mustard

1 pint peanut or olive oil

Lemon juice or vinegar

Beat the egg yolks, salt, and mustard together and gradually add the oil, beating constantly until well thickened and stiff. Thin with lemon juice or vinegar to taste.

If your mayonnaise starts to curdle, begin over with another egg yolk and a little oil, and gradually add the curdled mixture. I find that it is important to have your eggs and oil at the same temperature.

You may make mayonnaise with a fork, a rotary beater, a whisk, or an electric blender or mixer, or a food processor.

VARIATION

Sauce Andalouse. To 1 cup mayonnaise add 1/2 cup tomato paste