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In the East, the distinct flavor of the hard clam or quahog makes it the preferred ingredient in Boston clam chowder and in that entirely dissimilar soup — not so highly regarded by connoisseurs — Manhattan clam chowder. Several regional varieties of clams are popular on the half shell, but perhaps the best known is the “cherrystone,” which is actually a small quahog. Clams served on the half shell must be very cold. Care should be taken when they are opened that no drop of the wonderful juice is lost, and anyone who does not drink the juice from the shells is losing half the enjoyment of eating clams. Raw clams are usually served with cocktail sauce, which in my opinion really ruins their delicate flavor. I prefer lemon juice and a little freshly ground pepper or horseradish. Others insist that lime juice is far better with clams than lemon.

CLAM APPETIZERS

1 clove garlic, mashed

7-ounce can minced clams

1/4 pound cream cheese

Sour cream

Parsley

Mix the garlic with the clams, cream cheese, and enough sour cream to thin it down for dunking. Taste for seasoning and add chopped parsley.

This makes an excellent dunk for crisp raw vegetables. It is also good with bread sticks or very small corn sticks.

VARIATIONS

1. Try a spread instead of a dunk. Drain the clams and work them into the cream cheese. Then add just enough of the clam juice to make a smooth spread. Flavor with a little grated onion, salt, and pepper.

2. Drain the clams and mix with cottage cheese and a dash of Worcestershire sauce.

3. Drain the clams, mix with sour cream, a tablespoon of chopped fresh dill, a tablespoon of chopped parsley, a little onion juice, and salt and pepper. You may add some cream cheese to this to make a stiffer paste, if you prefer.

4. Mince tiny white pickled onions and combine with cream cheese and minced clams, drained. Salt and pepper to taste.

CLAM CHOWDER

See pages 55–57.

CLAM SOUP

This may be made with any type of clam. It is best, to my taste, with either littlenecks (known as quahogs in New England) or razor clams.

2 cups milk

1 cup minced clams

2 egg yolks

1/2 cup heavy cream

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

3 tablespoons butter

Paprika

Scald the milk. Grind the clams and save their liquor. Beat the egg yolks with the cream, stir them into the clams and clam juice, and add to the hot milk. Continue stirring over low heat until the clams are just heated through and the cream and egg yolks well blended in. Correct the seasoning and serve in small bowls with a lump of butter and a dash of paprika added at the last minute.

STEAMED CLAMS

For this popular dish, figure an average of 20 clams per person. You may increase or decrease this amount according to the appetites of the diners. Place the clams, which have been thoroughly scrubbed, in a large kettle with 1/2 inch of salt water at the bottom. Cover the kettle tightly and steam just until the clams open. This should take from 6 to 10 minutes. Discard any clams that do not open. Serve at once with large bowls of melted butter and cups of the broth. (Taste the broth for seasoning.)

STEAMED CLAMS À LA MARINIÉRE

This recipe is usually used for preparing mussels, but clams may be prepared in any way that you cook mussels.

6 to 7 dozen clams

1 large onion, chopped

Parsley

Thyme

Bay leaf

1 cup (approximatey) white wine

6 tablespoons butter

Freshly ground black pepper

Scrub the clams well and put them in a large kettle with the onion, parsley, thyme, and bay leaf. Add the wine and 4 tablespoons of the butter; grind a little pepper over all. Cover tightly and steam until the clams open. Discard any that do not open. Remove the clams to a large serving dish or to individual serving dishes. Put the sauce through a fine sieve, taste it for seasoning, and reheat, adding the remaining 2 tablespoons butter and a little chopped parsley. Pour this sauce over the clams.

VARIATIONS

1. Some people like 2 or 3 cloves