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James Beard's New Fish Cookery - James Beard [123]

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all. Bake in a 450° oven for 10 minutes. Reduce the heat to 350° and continue baking until a knife inserted in the center comes out clean. Serve hot.


VARIATION

You may sprinkle the tart with grated Parmesan cheese before baking it.


CLAMS WITH RICE, SPANISH STYLE


1 medium onion, finely chopped

1 clove garlic, finely chopped

1 slice smoked ham, shredded

1 cup cooked tomatoes

1 pint clam broth (fresh or canned)

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Pinch of saffron

18 to 20 small clams

1 cup washed rice


Combine the onion, garlic, ham, tomatoes, and the clam broth and simmer for 20 minutes. Season to taste and add the saffron. Wash the clams, scrubbing them well. Arrange them in a large casserole with the rice. Pour the hot sauce over this and bake in a 350° oven until the rice is cooked and the liquid nearly all absorbed.


CLAM PAN ROASTS


In reality, pan roasts are nothing more nor less than sautés, a most delicate and delicious way to serve clams. There seem to be endless variations on this theme, and I include only the few that are my favorites. For a plain pan roast:


1/4 pound butter

1 pint drained clams

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Paprika

Buttered toast

Chopped parsley


Melt the butter in a skillet or chafing dish. Add the drained whole clams from which you have trimmed the tough littlenecks. Cook them just long enough to heat through and plump up. Season to taste with salt, pepper, and paprika, and serve on rounds of toast, buttered (or on fried toast), and top with parsley.


VARIATIONS

1. Add a spoonful of Worcestershire sauce and a dash of Dijon mustard to the pan when the clams are cooked.

2. Add finely chopped chives, fennel, parsley, or tarragon to the clams as they cook.

3. Add 1/2 cup white wine or champagne to the pan and let it cook for just a minute after the clams have puffed.

4. Add butter, 1/3 cup sherry, 1/3 cup chili sauce, and a little grated onion. Cook the clams in this mixture and serve them on garlic fried toast with the sauce poured over.

5. Chop 1 small green pepper and 1 onion very fine and sauté them in 2/3 cup butter until soft. Add the clams and cook until they are plump and heated through. Salt and pepper to taste and add a few grains of cayenne. Serve on toast.


CLAMS SAUTÉ


Clams should be dipped in flour or beaten egg and crumbs and then sautéed in plenty of butter.

1. Razor clams. Clean the clams, and either use whole or only the tender digging foot — if clams are plentiful. Dip in flour, or in egg and crumbs, and sauté quickly in plenty of butter. Salt and pepper to taste and serve with lemon wedges.

2. Soft clams. Clean and dip in flour, or egg and crumbs, and sauté lightly until delicately browned. Add chopped parsley and lemon juice, salt, and freshly ground black pepper.

3. Littleneck clams. The procedure is the same as for soft clams.


BATTER-FRIED CLAMS


2 eggs, separated

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 cup sifted flour

1/3 teaspoon salt

1/2 cup milk

1 tablespoon lemon juice

About 2 cups of small clams

Fat or oil heated to 365°

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper


Beat the egg yolks until light and lemon-colored. Beat in the olive oil, flour, salt, milk, and lemon juice. Beat the egg whites until stiff and fold them in. Add the clams. Let stand for 2 hours. Drop by spoonfuls into hot fat and pan-fry 4 or 5 minutes or until golden brown. Drain on absorbent paper and salt and pepper to taste.


VARIATION

Substitute 1 tablespoon of brandy or whiskey for the lemon juice.


GREEN NOODLES WITH CLAMS


1 quart clams in shell

1 medium onion

1 stalk of celery

1 carrot

1 cup white wine or vermouth

1/2 cup olive oil

3 cloves garlic, finely chopped

1/2 cup chopped parsley (Italian, if possible)

11/2 tablespoons chopped basil

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

8 ounces green noodles (white will do)


Wash the clams well. Cut the onion, celery, and carrot into fine strips, and put them in a large kettle. Add the wine and the clams. Cover tightly and steam until the clams open. Remove the clams from their shells

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